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My Pro 1 just quit...


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After a bit over 2 years as my daily driver, my stock software Pro 1 refuses to start today...

No display and no LED

The USB charging has been bit wonky for 5 or 6 months now, I have had to plug it in, hang it so it dangles by the cord and then reboot it for it to charge...  And use a USB volt/amp meter to be sure it is charging... 

Last night, when I hooked it up and rebooted it, it did not restart...

It was at about 45% battery charge when I plugged it in.  I never use a high voltage charger, and it usually charges at about 1.1-.7A and 5.03V

Today, it draws no current.  Plugging it in to several different computers, a mixture of Windows 7 and Windows 10, USB 2 and USB 3 ports gets nothing...  it is not detected.  I tried several cables and verified the cables work on my wife's One Plus.

I've tried the hold the power button for 20 seconds, release for 3, hold for 2... nothing.

I've replaced the screen several times... So it has been dropped before...

Getting ready to drive over and buy a temperature controlled heat gun to help disassemble the base so I can check for loose and or disconnected cables...

Ideas please?

Also, I need to find a temporary replacement phone...

I'd prefer it be something that I can just pull my Pro 1 Verizon SIM out of and just plug and go...  Really don't want to have to go through the setup process with Verizon again once I get this repaired or replaced...

Oh!  And if anybody has a working QWERTY Pro 1 for sale...

Thanks...

--

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51 minutes ago, theory said:

Getting ready to drive over and buy a temperature controlled heat gun to help disassemble the base so I can check for loose and or disconnected cables...

Ideas please?

You will not need a heat gun to disassemble the base part but after unscrewing its screws, you need to have something really thin to detach clips and also to ensure you will not hurt the phone... it holds together really tight also without screws...

Anyway, I have heard USB board itself may cause such behaviour, so it may happen you will only need a replacement USB board.

Also, if you disassemble your phone, you may check its connectors (basically under a metal part which helps these connectors to remain in place).
If they are connected well, I would also try to switch the phone on without the USB board connected (it turns on), so you may check if really your USB board is the cause of this problem.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 4/23/2022 at 6:55 PM, VaZso said:

You will not need a heat gun to disassemble the base part but after unscrewing its screws, you need to have something really thin to detach clips and also to ensure you will not hurt the phone... it holds together really tight also without screws...

Anyway, I have heard USB board itself may cause such behaviour, so it may happen you will only need a replacement USB board.

Also, if you disassemble your phone, you may check its connectors (basically under a metal part which helps these connectors to remain in place).
If they are connected well, I would also try to switch the phone on without the USB board connected (it turns on), so you may check if really your USB board is the cause of this problem.

Well, got it apart today...

Found what appears to be a manufacturing defect... The sheet metal clip holding all the ribbon connectors on to the main board was installed in such a way it had partially cut the battery ribbon cable right at the connector...  Looks like I need a new battery as well...  I'm not sure if the battery is still providing power to the board or not...

Reseated the ribbon cable to the USB board at both ends... No change... Will not charge or boot.

Disconnected the USB board ribbon cable and tried to boot.  Did not boot...

While testing charging, I noticed that if I got the USB cable in just the right spot, sometimes the USB power meter I am using would indicate it drawing about 500mA for about  250mS...  Odd behavior...  But this behavior can only be seen with a standard USB A to C cable and a computer or general USB charger.  Using a USB C to C cable and a Power Delivery capable charger and the phone never communicates with the charger to start charging...

And I sent my request to buy a USB board to FXTec on 21APR2022...  I got the automated reply and nothing since...

Now I need a battery as well...

Start a new request?  Add to my existing request?  Wait until they answer my existing request?

--

 

 

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12 hours ago, theory said:

21APR2022...  I got the automated reply and nothing since...

Not even a month... :)) Just wait... and wait... and wait

I'm waiting for a warranty display since october/november 2021. Not even a response to my last reminder email.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 5/2/2022 at 5:10 AM, theory said:

Well, got it apart today...

Found what appears to be a manufacturing defect... The sheet metal clip holding all the ribbon connectors on to the main board was installed in such a way it had partially cut the battery ribbon cable right at the connector...  Looks like I need a new battery as well...  I'm not sure if the battery is still providing power to the board or not...

Reseated the ribbon cable to the USB board at both ends... No change... Will not charge or boot.

Disconnected the USB board ribbon cable and tried to boot.  Did not boot...

While testing charging, I noticed that if I got the USB cable in just the right spot, sometimes the USB power meter I am using would indicate it drawing about 500mA for about  250mS...  Odd behavior...  But this behavior can only be seen with a standard USB A to C cable and a computer or general USB charger.  Using a USB C to C cable and a Power Delivery capable charger and the phone never communicates with the charger to start charging...

And I sent my request to buy a USB board to FXTec on 21APR2022...  I got the automated reply and nothing since...

Now I need a battery as well...

Start a new request?  Add to my existing request?  Wait until they answer my existing request?

--

 

 

I suspect that the reason it is completely unresponsive is the damage to the battery cable. Some devices will run without the battery connected, using power exclusively from the cord. This may not be one of them. It may need a bigger hit of power than the cord can supply to get things active initially. It may be possible with careful scraping and soldering to repair that ribbon cable at least enough to confirm that the device does operate when the battery is reconnected. It may leave the ribbon too thick to close the device though. The USB board is likely not the cause of the issue, and the draw you're seeing is probably it attempting to launch the charge program, then finding no battery and quitting. That would indicate that the mainboard is OK. I suspect that a USB board and a battery will make yours perfect again.

That said, the long lead times are par for the course. Thanks to CONTROL-19, everyone is short-staffed and FxTec was always a little short-staffed so they have it much worse. The majority of their focus has necessarily been on getting new devices out the door, since that's how they continue to exist, but history shows that they do eventually keep their promises to existing customers. Patience is a necessary virtue in all of life, and they just give opportunity to practice it. :)

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