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I'm not sure I quite understand your question. You can select the physical layout Inside Lineage settings ("languages and input", "physical keyboard", "Advanced settings", "physical layout"). If it is selecting the layout you wish, that does not seem to work, then see a few pages back, where I had odd problems with the layouts going to 18.1, that was fixed by a factory reset. We never really found out why the upgrade failed. For some the upgrade goes just fine, so some combo with other stuff...

I'm no expert, but based on my experience I would guess either the new cable or the new port (or both) took you to USB 2. USB 3 seems really finicky with this stuff. I now use USB 2 exclusively and have no problems.

I have a fresh installed version of 18.1, but just only the Z and Y are correct on my QWERTZ layout. Any chance to get the full keyboard working?

So I was impatient and bought a generic USB-A to USB-C cable which allowed be to unlock and flash; joy! I have no idea what makes this cable/setup different (except the other cable was USB-C to USB-C, and I now have to use a different USB port), but if there is any interrest I can buy another one and dissect it to get some photos/data. Thanks all for the input and time! Arn

I get best results when using a Raspberry Pi3 for flashing the Pro1. I had lots of trouble using my normal PCs as well, even though some of them are old pure-USB-2.0 systems. The RPi has a 100% success record up to now. The cable then does not seem to matter much: I have successfully used, both, the official one and some random spare I had lying around. If you have a Raspberry at hand anyway (), just give it a try. The needed Android tools are just an "apt install adb fastboot" away. Edit: Note that the fact that my RPi is version 3 may be important. The Pi3 is the latest versi

Many other factors could affect this (unfortunately), so no easy dead sure answer. Sometimes a different port (even on the same PC) can make a difference. And some have reported that using a hub might help, and others that not using a hub helped... The driver on the PC for the port also matters... so I would say the best to do is to experiment, including other cables and perhaps other pc's. It is not that it is hard to get it working, but when it isn't working, it can be hard to figure out the why. 😖 I have it working fine even with fairly cheap Chinese usb-cables on an ancient Lenovo th

Hi, I am running into some problems[1] with fastboot and the consensus seems to be to try another cable[2] in such cases. The problem is: I can’t find information on what a proper cable is. No doubt this has to do with the amount of connectors/wires, but what do you need, and how is this specified? Is it an MTP cable, or OTG? Is it USB-C to USB-C, of only UBC-A to USB-C? I don’t mind getting a new cable (ok: I mind a little), but I would like to get one that works in one go instead of trial and error through various cables… Appreciated if somebody can help me with this!

Sending you a pm!

The led would flah red on low battery or on some notifications, check if you have a notification pending and discard them if so. Otherwise if the battery is lower then 15%it would flash too. Finally if it still flash just reboot it. After all this it shouldn't flash anymore.

@matf It was stolen from the ex of my girlfriend when we tried to call the police. I expect it was thrown into the river afterwards and he claims he wasn't even there. Since three people have seen him he won't get away with it. However it can take ages and I don't expect that I get the money a new one would cost me. A case about a broken graphics card took three years until I was refunded completely. @eightaceI wouldn't care so much about the y/z but qwertys are shifted while qwertz are not. ÄÖÜ are important for me as well...

(But I contacted your a few hours before this post to tell you I would like to buy your Pro1, is that a no? :() Sad to hear about your stolen QWERTZ Schattengestalt, hope you'll find one. Just curious, in which conditions did it disappear? You mentioned you would get your money back for it but it was destroyed, so I'm curious. Was it in a repair shop for instance?

I am selling one in the UK virtually new with a QWERTY keyboard if you don't have any luck.

My Pro1 was stolen a couple weeks ago and most probably destroyed. I'll someday get my money back but there's no way I'll see my phone again. In the last weeks I tried to work with a regular touch phone and I just can't handle it anymore. Yes, I had my problems with it, yes, it was frustrating at times. But typing with 300+ keystrokes a minute without covering 50% of your screen is something I am missing a lot. But shipping still seems to take ages. That's why I try it this way: I'm looking for a Pro1 Qwertz phone in used condition and I'm willing to pay 750€ for it. If located in so

Well then I'm your buyer. :O

In thbat case I would suggest you disassemble the screen and bend and clean the contacts on the microphone.there are just five screws and two snap-on connectors. The alternative is sending it back for warranty and waitin a couple of months. Really, I would suggest trying to clean and re-inforce the contact pins on te mic. Take the screen apart and you will immediately recognize what I'm talking about.

As far as I know there are no OIS in the setup, so it must be the focus mechanism you are 'poking', so if it for some reason got stuck or had some dirt preventing its movement it does make sense that poking it might help it move freely again.

Never seen that. My guess would be that it is some app that does it.... Say some app that fails to do whatever it tries to and is signalling for you to fix it. e.g. a mail app failing to communicate with the mail-server When you say restart, is it just a Press power select Restart, or is it a hold power down for some 10 secs? The later does a deeper boot. (and is simple and non-destructive so try that first) If that does not fix it I would try to stop apps (Settings, Apps, See all apps, find and click app, click Force Stop) on any newly installed or newly updated app, to see see if t

Still for sale 😁

Well the camera is Sony IMX363, but I don't think it's so easy replacing camera, as you can see in service manual, you have to disassemble the phone quite in complete (with de-soldering and other tricky things. And I think it will be difficult finding a spare camera by Sony, or you should take it from an other phone. In fact my advice is : - remove the plastic-glass behind -camera is a dual-lens rear shooter that combines a 12MP lens with a 5MP one. Try to move a little the 12MP (the big one, the small one doen't move), carefully. For what I see, stabilizer is a very small

No.... it is ok.... My corners have everything ok. I tried pressing a and do not working... I wrote on support and sent photos for warranty now i waitnig on respond...

Does anybody know how to turn the red led light off? ever since yesterday June 8 2021 it started blinking and it hasn't turned off. It does has over 50% battery. No notifications, missed calls, or alarms pending nothing at all. Yesterday morning i did notice that nothing would happen when i went to click anything on the screen that i had to restart the phone and went back to normal, but red led light still blinking. I don't charge my phone overnight at all either so i don't know whats going on. Yes i know it turns on red while charging and green while coming close to full charge.

I have fxtecpro1 and the RED LED light started blinking since yesterday and hasn't stopped. How can i get it to stop? I know it turns red while charging and then green when comes near to full charge. If anyone knows how to turn off please let me know, thank you

Congratulations @raymo for your findings. I suspect now that a hardware is the most probable cause of my camera problems (not focusing far objects). Before I try to what you did, I would like to be sure I can replace it if I mess with it. Do we know which camera is installed, can we order it somewhere?