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Posts posted by EskeRahn
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There are Pros and Cons of LineageOS, but I doubt t will fix what you are reporting, if it was a general problem common among other Android users we would have known, so at mentioned in the other thread, you either got a faulty unit, or some apps that causes havoc. So wiping the phone with a factory reset and no added apps is the first step.
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....The driver is ancient:
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I see it like this in adb
And like this in fastboot
I have never heard of "Kedacom" BTW
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PS I assume that you await the boot of "adb reboot bootloader" to finish, ending in the bootloader menu, right?
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That "fastboot devices" returns without even waiting is the expected behaviour if it does not see any device in fastboot mode.
It only shows a result if the device is in fastboot mode (shows the bootloader menu).Is the hub USB 3? If so try something inferior(!)
Try from an old PC, a linux PC or with an old usb 2 hub. From other threads this seems to hit 'newer' pc's with windows andd usb 3.0. So an old pc with usb 2.0 is likely to do the trick. -
Apart from driver, It COULD also be a connection issue, as fastboot is more picky than ADB...
You could try to connect through a hub, as direct connection to newer pc's USB 3 ports have caused me problems with fastboot.I do not know why a hub helps here, but my guess is that it adds som lag in the connection, that makes fastboot more happy.
I had issues with a Lenovo laptop, but using a USB 3 port on Lenovo 'docking' connected via Thunderbolt 4, make it work. I also experimented with an ancient cheap (usb 1?) hub, and it worked, but things got extremely slow, so flashing took sort of forever - but it did work.
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Hmm most likely some overheating protection that kicks in, as you previously reported it getting very hot during usage.
It is not a thing I have experienced, so you might have a faulty unit??? 😢
Anyone else experiencing this?
My first guess would be a factory reset, to rule out that it is some software running that uses a lot of power, as this could make most phones go hot.-
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I put a flip case on mine, and that practically eliminates the issue, as you are then unlikely to accidentally trigger it.
We have a terrible long thread on (mainly DIY) cases, but long-story-short, it requires either a 3D-printed case or some tinkering with existing cases.
I have my own blah blah on the cases I made, and have been using for five years here.-
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Let me repeat my reply to about the same post on IGG yesterday:
Uh that was a bad experience!! On the broken seal they did a long while back say that they opened boxes to check battery, why they were not re-sealed I have no idea, others have reported the same. And the bloated battery is most likely the cause of your broken device. I guess no one opened and re-checked devices before this wave was rolled out, Contact them at [email protected] I’m not sure they read comments in here.-
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On 7/8/2024 at 2:57 PM, Alpaswiss said:
I found another Way
After plug-in to the supply, the Device consumed power after around 1 second, for around 0.8 seconds. So I connected a Switchable Supply, and made power-cycles of 2s on and 2s off. After approximatly 800 cycles it consumed more power, then it was able to charge the battery the regular way.Interesting and faster method! 👍 Though the fewest will have the needed Switchable Supply to do it this way, it could be interesting for FxTec for devices they got in for service. So let me tag @Erik and @Casey so they can forward it to the right persons.
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15 hours ago, Hook said:
I do think the body/case is the same, but I'm just guessing.
Nope, they are not identical, the USB is moved further away from the back on the Pro1X (to allow for larger plugs, like the round magnetic charge-only ones)
And I think they said something about different antenna-layout at some point.
If I remember correctly, the physical keyboard parts are the same, though the logical key-layout printed is different. (the qwertZ layout for Germany and others might be identical)-
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38 minutes ago, chrissv said:
...so this problem might be Windows-specific´...
Quite possible, it could be some ever so slightly different handling of some handshaking (or lack of handshaking?)
At first I thought it was USB3.0 that was the problem, as USB2.0 seem to 'always' work. But it is more complex than that, as it works just fine with USB3.0 from the Thunderbolt4.0 hub.
My guess is that the presence of a hub adds ever so slightly to the latency, and it just MIGHT be that the Linux driver has ever so slightly longer latency build in. -
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7 minutes ago, JJB said:
It might be driver. But which to take ?
It might be this post
https://community.fxtec.com/topic/3462-usb-drivers-in-windows-10/?tab=comments#comment-61186 -
I had various issues when I got a new PC, and I posted them in here, but I forgot where, and also what driver I used, but i did 'something', it did not work out of the box as I recall it....
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BTW I do not use the -d option - I have no clue if that makes a difference
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5 minutes ago, JJB said:
It looks like this:
"could not read ok from ADB server"
That could be communication issues.
Try a slower port. Have your PC got a USB2.0 port?
If not try a hub. An ancient very primitive hub supporting USB 1.0 only, worked for me - quite slow, but it worked.
Just to be sure that it not the issue. Could be driver also of course. -
9 minutes ago, JJB said:
You mean if I change something on the physical connection it might support the ADB commandos ?
I mean that the flashing is likely to fail on some connections. What is the error message you get from adb?
After you have flashed the recovery image with fastboot you need to boot into recovery mode, bootloader mode on the phone does not understand adb-commands directly
Here is the batch-file I use on windows for flashing:@ECHO off if %2.==. goto :EOF ECHO * Wait for boot to bootloader to finish (or do manually holding VolDown+Power) adb reboot bootloader pause echo * sending %~n1 fastboot --set-active=a fastboot flash boot %1 TimeOut 5 /nobreak>nul shift REM fastboot reboot recovery does not work, so do manually: ECHO * Roll down to "Recovery Mode" with VolDown, and press Power to select. :REPEAT ECHO * Await recovery boot. Select "Apply update", "Apply from ADB" for flash of ECHO * %~n1 pause ECHO * If prompted (shortly after 47%%) tap "yes" to "...Install anyway" adb sideload %1 TimeOut 5 /nobreak>nul shift if %1.==. goto :NORM ECHO * Back to main menu, select Advanced, "Reboot to recovery". goto :REPEAT :NORM ECHO * Back from the main menu, select Reboot. ECHO **DONE** Should now boot into the new rom
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Also remember that both ports and cables can be problematic with fastboot on newer PC's
For me going through a hub helped connecting (It is still USB3.0, but something is different from when connecting directly), I guest that even a Thunderbolt hub, adds a tiny extra delay in the communication, and that helps getting fastboot working. -
48 minutes ago, JJB said:
- The LineageOS install guide says: "Boot your device with the stock OS at least once and check every functionality. Make sure that you can send and receive SMS and place and receive calls (also via WiFi and LTE, if available), otherwise it won’t work on LineageOS either! Additionally, some devices require that VoLTE/VoWiFi be utilized once on stock to provision IMS."
Now, as I was not able to run it first time due to that google topic I guess this is something to skip. And as I have a brand new phone I hope I can assume the Pro1X won't need that. Or is it known to have issues here ?
The point with this step is to assure that everything hardware wise is working in your specimen, not to waste time on troubleshooting on Lineage, if it is a faulty specimen, that slipped through their QC. Or a connector managed to pop out during transportation, perhaps before you even got it.
But it is not a MUST, seen in the sense that things wont work if you did not do it. It is just a fairly simple step, that might ease debugging any trouble.
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10 hours ago, Kzin said:
So reverting to a previous nightly, will probably require a wipe?
Most likely. You could try without, but I would certainly be sure to back up stuff first, since I think the risk of having to wipe is high.
(My point was more to download and save the file, and if the issue is not fixed shortly, you have a return path)-
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As the other thread said, it can be REALLY picky on some tags. I have some where moving it a single mm in the wrong direction prevent it from reading. Please try to light trough the card (or what ever got the tag) to be sure what type of nfc tag you are trying to read,
And I even for some have better results WITH a case than without, so picky on the distance too....In short it is bit of a nightmare to get it to read some tags..
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2 hours ago, jakfish said:
Wow! What promise. A silly question: with the power button fully engaged overnight, am I to assume that the phone is connected to a power source and charging throughout?
Yes connected, but as he describes not charging continuously, but a few seconds per boot. Amazing that it worked. I really hope others can reproduce it, fixing their issues.
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Just to chime in here, the camera seems to still work fine with both the build in Camera app and the Open Camera app with the older build in lineage-21.0-20240615-nightly-pro1-signed.zip
So I would recommend to make sure to get a copy from here of that version until the bug (hopefully) gets fixed.
As not all bugs got high priority, the working build might disappear by age, as only the last five builds are available for download. (On the priority, e.g. the keyboard is still almost useless for bilingual usage and has been so in all the 21.0 releases this far, so I am considering reverting to 20.0, and see 21.0 as as dead as the AICP releases)Remember that going to a previous build (almost) always will require you to wipe the user data.
PS: Do not get me wrong, Not criticising here! I know this is all done voluntarily by some awesome people.-
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The device keeps turning off.
in General Discussion
Posted
To make sure what is going on you will need to do as follow to narrow down the issue
You could also do it the other way round