SchattengestaIt

Sadly, the Pro1 doesn't have inductive charging so that won't work. I don't see any other method to directly charge the battery without opening it either. Maybe let a phone shop do it if they cost less than sending it in? You/the shop have to be careful with the fingerprint sensor and the power button (you can easily scrape the rubber coating away). By the way, can somebody tell me how this problem is caused? Why does a depleted battery break the charging circuitry?

Please don't disassemble new and intact phones if you don't have to. The Pro1 is easier to disassemble than other phones and it has a lot of potential for modifications (like I have two USB C ports) but it's not worth the risk damaging some components while opening it up. I know it's sad but please let it get fixed by FxTec, even if it takes some (more) time.

Do I understand it right that people who ordered on the website are still waiting on their phone while indigogo supporters receive theirs? Not to mention that 'we' (website buyers) don't get any kind of newsletter anymore. Also, the Pro1x is currently out of stock on the website. Has production stopped and will all buyers get their device eventually?

If by 'bottom part' you mean the metal plating on the backside of the display, you are right. This is the easiest part to remove, you just remove five screws and pry it open. As you have problems, I expect that you want to try to open the casing where the battery lies in. You'll have to remove the display first and then access three screws on the side where the buttons lie and two screws in the corners of the display. To access them more easily, there are holes in the back of your display back cover, where you can stick through your screwdriver. You don't need a heat gun to

I'm not sure about that. In my view it's related to the usage. I'm a very heavy user and I have my phone in my pockets all the time. This includes pushing and squeezing by the pockets themselves or from the outside (i.e. when lifting heavy stuff and the phone is in between). The only thing I'm not doing is to 'clack' my phone. I've had this issue with three phones now, with the replaced displays failing faster. Probably because a factory mount leaves less room for movement. The first one (used) lasted over a year without issues. If other people have their phone mostly on the table or even

Make your displays last longer I've recently ordered a bunch of those 'b-ware' displays and out of seven, two were in good condition and one is usable (~20€ each). That's okayish since there are no good displays to order anymore. As the displays are so scarce nowadays and they never caused touchscreen problems when assembled in the original phones (Elephone U Pro), I've looked more into the touchscreen issues. I've inspected the frame and searched for a point of failure. And I think I found one. Using one of the broken displays in my order (big black dots over the display) I found o

We currently haven't found any battery that fits perfectly by dimensions and most certainly you'd need to switch the circuit board (BMS, temperature sensor, etc.) from your FxTec to your old battery. So yes, the best option currently is to buy a new one from FxTec...

@VaZso I'd be very interested in seeing pictures of the frame, google doesn't provide me with anything useful. Maybe a picture from top and one from the side?

@John Veness If you press with force onto the middle of your display, it will bend slightly. That's very noticeable with replacement displays since they have a sticky back and you can hear the glue sticking to something when being pressed. The design flaw of the Pro1 probably is that there's a gap between display and display cover (the part you screw onto the sliding mechanism) and therefore you have more wear on the display. If I don't forget, I'll try to measure how much air is between display and the plastic part, maybe we can stick something in between, idealy some plastic glued on, s

@VaZso I was thinking about Epoxy as well but the higher the viscosity, the worse it will get into small gaps. You'll have to be careful with superglue but I expect better results if I pour superglue into the gaps to prevent any kind of movement. I just hope it doesn't get into the corners of the display itself. @Hook I open the display very softly as well, so that's not the root of the problem. In my case, it's probably related to pressure in the pockets of my trousers. The display is too flexible for tight pockets. And since the phone is so big, every jeans' pocket is tight.

As an abusive user, my third display starts to have a 'blind' touchscreen line. What a shame. I've now ordered a handful of displays from Aliexpress, expecting two or three to be usable. I've found two other sources for displays but both are shops from china labelled to be in the UK or something else. I expect a higher risk to be scammed there than on AliExpress... My main question is, though, if there's any known way to prevent the issue? As far as I remember, it's caused by slight movement which breaks the ribbon cable over time. Maybe it even rips off from the display. I'

More measurements are always great. You could check what the pins do. The width would also be interesting if you can take it exactly. Let us know if you find something new. 🙂

Are they still 100€ + shipping?

I can only guess at this point. The best case scenario would be an error in the capacity (I've seen that before). If it expects a different thermal resistor, it wouldn't charge. But I really don't know. Maybe there's a failsafe mechanism that allows usage with a standard protocol (like only charge with up to 0.5A to prevent overheating). At the point where I exchange the battery I'll do some measurements to see how big of a difference those resistors are compared to other batteries...

I fear we don't only need the same connector (it's three or four pins after all) but the same hardware behind it. The pins will be ground | VBus (positive) | temperature | capacity A different battery might uses different resistors so it would deliver wrong values. Since the battery itself only has two pins which connect to the circuit, the best approach is to remove the circuit from your Pro1 battery and solder it to your new battery that fits into your phone. I have a new (probably) fitting battery laying around but I haven't had the time to try out if it actually fits and how th

I may be on the other end of the opinions here. I use my Pro1 as a phone since around two years now and it was always a pleasure. I dropped it many times and every corner is damaged but the screen and phone works fine. I type excessively and fast (+300 keystrokes/minute) and the keyboard still works fine. I even melted some keyboard buttons on the right part when trying to change the usb port as I forgot that there was another side of the phone (you can easily get out the usb port pcb). But it works fine. I removed my fingerprint sensor and added a secondary usb port and... since I use

The first photo doesn't include the usb port. There's not much room behind the usb port (I'd say 3-4mm), we would need 17mm. The connector and wifi (?) cable are both in the way. The only way I see this happen would be to completely get rid of the usb port and add a second one around the fingerprint sensor like I did here. I never used my stock usb port anymore so it's not impossible. But is it really worth the effort to completely remove your main usb port, wire up a secondary port on the side of your phone only to gain gain up to 600mAh (17.5%) to the second best battery option? My i

@Adrienspawn The original battery has 3200mAh so 2900mAh would be fine for a non-standard replacement. I also believe the connector won't be a problem although it actually looks very similar to the Pro1's default connector. I could imagine we can simply input and output electricity without even changing the circuit in the battery. If not, we are most probably able to extract the circuit from the old (broken) battery to add it to the new one. The Lenovo Zuk battery seems great. But 3mm? I believe +1mm is no problem but 3mm is a lot of squeezing. I still ordered one and will give feedba

I did some research myself, based on photos: - 80x34x4.7 (1500mAh) https://www.batteries4pro.com/en/communication/Telephony/alcatel/3,7393-3-8v-1-5ah-li-ion-battery-for-alcatel-one-touch-pixi-4-4-0-4894128125198.html - 76x36x6.4 (1800mAh) - maybe too thick https://www.batteries4pro.com/en/communication/Telephony/nokia/3,9628-3-7v-1-8ah-li-polymer-battery-for-nokia-lumia-900-4894128076117.html - 92x32x3.5 (1400mAh) - Apple https://www.batteries4pro.com/en/communication/Telephony/apple/3,7433-battery-38v-14ah-lipo-for-apple-iphone-5-4894128065395.html - 90x30x4 (2900mAh) - Apple http

Sadly, 'a bit longer' is really bad. You can't just cut off a part of the battery. We'd need a battery smaller than 36mm*110mm (I don't know the height) to work. How did you search for the dimensions though? Maybe we can help you.

I've opened the wrap before (but I don't know why), you can simply seal it with scotch tape afterwards. Be sure to not touch the white/grey part of the battery itself though.

On the top of the battery, there's a sealed circuit. It's around 5mm wide and sealed in some yellow tape. I haven't opened the FxTec battery but most batteries have their two terminals which go into the circuit (usually a BMS - battery management system, sometimes including thermal sensors). I'm 99% sure we'll find the same thing here. And yes, the connector has positive and negative output (4 pins each, I believe), you can measure the battery by those outer pins and also charge it up to 4.2V with them. You could also measure it through your mainboard, there are golden (round) test spots

I don't know the exact versions I was using. But from a developer standpoint the fix should be in every version of LOS. I think I jumped from LOS 16 to LOS 18 directly, but I'm not sure about that either. The only thing I remember is that I updated after getting the display advice from somebody else and it fixed my display too.

You can store batteries at around 30-40% battery and if they aren't connected to anything, they'll hold the charge and capacity. If you want to use it for something, there are 5V to 4.2V converters, you'll get those on ebay for 3-5 dollars.

Hey there, so they actually charged you guys 120€? If so, I'd be interested in your old/broken battery. In the case one of you changes their old battery as it lost too much capacity, I'd be happy if you PM me. I'd like to disassemble it, learn about the charging/monitoring circuit and try to change the battery cells to a pack that would fit into the Pro1. Maybe we get a cheap fix that way. So if your battery is trash, please send it to me instead (I'll pay for shipping of course). Time doesn't matter. My own battery isn't unusable yet so if you change it in a few months, please