Leaderboard

I wouldn't say holy, more like cheapskate emergency grail, since it's a whole amp hour less than the original, and requires a lot of elbow grease to replace. Yes, I took the board off the original battery, it was soldered so came out clean. The replacement was similarly attached to its own board, but I ended up physically breaking it off by repeatedly folding the tabs, which I guess made them a bit shorter. If you are better than me with a soldering iron, or maybe use a heat gun you should be able to de-solder those as well, and that will give you a better surface to work with. They of co

They are just bare cells without the BMS PCB and connector to the Pro1. you would need to transfer them from your original board to make them fit. I am very sure that the cell´s sizes are identical to the pro1 and the pro1x, so those cells could be used on either of them as long as you transfer the respective board from your old battery. keep in mind that this is not really a rookie-job and you can easily mess up things, nshans way looks not very durable. But sure, for a Proof of concept it might be just fine.

I can confirm this working. I am able to install the display driver on the replacement screen attached to my pro1 and then it is working as expected on the Pro1x.

Yes, exactly. Sadly, they don't tell you about shipping cost. So you'll have to pay for the batteries in the first step, then you pay 60-100€ shipping fees and then you pay additional import fees. So it's a good idea to order many batteries to either resell them or use them in the next years. The battery cells themselves are super cheap. I ended up paying around 75€ for five cells which is alright. Especially considering that a new battery from Pro1 (1 piece) costs 130€ with shipping fees. @EskeRahn also had problems with delivery and I think he refunded the order since he never rec

@tdm's driver unfortunately does not come with much documentation outside the source code itself. @Sean McCreary has summarized things in a way I could not best: https://community.fxtec.com/topic/3347-how-to-customize-the-keyboard-layout-on-lineageos-181/?do=findComment&comment=57526 In short: The first column of the keymap is a decimal "key-number" specific to @tdm's driver. The next two columns are the hexadecimal Linux (not Android!) input codes to be generated by that key, either when pressed alone (second column), or together with the "Fn" (yellow arrow) modifier (third

You can get magnetic connection plugs (that also do data just fine), and this reduces the wear of the usb-port substantially. Have been using that on all my phones since galaxy 6, and BB priv.

Soo i can confirm, that display pulled from pro1 is fully working on pro1X...no margins no problems 🙂

I have now one pro1X for repair....and i have one old pro1 spare display...i will test it 🙂