EskeRahn

Great, lucky you that it was not zx browser.... 🤣

That they worked initially is a good sign, so most likely you can avoid the full reset. I agree with @Hook's suggestion, but start with any app that is mentioned as active under Accessibility - or just switch its rights off under accessibility. And if that does not do it, focus on anything keyboard-related, or 'fancy', the more complex the larger the risk of it trying to be clever and mess of stuff. You could try to just STOP rather than uninstall stuff first, with the risk of them being brought back to live, making tests harder. A reboot often restarts a lot of junk you may have stopped

(lineage-19.1-20220822-nightly-pro1-signed.zip on August 5 security patch installed smoothly using adb sideload and MindTheGapps-12.1.0-arm64-20220605_174313) Still with the keyboard bug introduced that messes accessibility apps (works on AICP R/S based on Android 11/12) see e.g. this.

Yes, that is about the same functionality. The great thing about the other solution, was that it was impossible for the systems to (even inadvertently) mess up each other, as the production disk was simply not mounted while running something else. (I copied what ever data that needed to be shared to some usb-storage or SD with a RO-switch) ...For the most paranoid stuff, I had a disk with an OS with net removed, and unplugged the network cable....

Sad that it is not for you, hope you get a good price. 🙂

That could be a way to do it, yes, thanks. I miss the feature of my old Lenovo x300 and its easy way to swap SSDs/disks where I would just have used a separate disk

(Have a look at the reasonably pocketable Sony RX100 III, I think they are at VII, but photos on IV were marginally worse than III, and have not seen anything that persuaded me that V, VI or VII should give better images in poor light, in the wide end)

An ugly hack/workaround but something like py2exe, encapsulating all the junk might do the trick. It is not that I see it as malware. I'm pretty picky on what I install on my PC, and let us say that Puketon is not on my wish-list... And the "without a trace" would -unfortunately- be a first for stuff under Windows. Sure I could do backup and restore points, but that would be a bit excessive... I had Docker and Python 3.9 on a previous machine installed about a year ago, never got fully rid of it. Though the culprit for the issues could have been Docker,

Python=Phewton

YIKES So you are saying that I can not limit Phewton to a (virtual) machine to compile edl? Phewton actually have to infect the physical machine that is connected to the phone? ... Not a chance... But thanks anyway.

No typo. The Guide we got for using edl for flashing the Pro1X is for Linux, if I remember right. The windows guide is using QFIL. Compile edl

...Also remember that to compile it requires the PC to be infected with phewton 🤢

Just tried a factory reset (not a reflash), Entered google account, but skipped restore, and as soon as the wizard ended launched youtube and played some random junk, and it worked (no matter the volume) So this was NOT enough to trigger the bug. (despite having had it earlier)

He he, I mean Boot. When I had the bug, the first thing I did was to try headphones, and it was fine. When I had it, the only thing that helped was increasing the volume. As described earlier. I do not recall how early I tested it. But I do now it was only quite a while and multiple boots and other stuff later I tried again, only to my amazement to find that it seems to have been gone. But as this is a test-unit, I will try to do a factory reset, and see if the bug reoccur.

Sure it can be done, but someone has to make a variant of step by step guide for people not on Linux. So (almost) any Pro1X user can step back to the build they got it with. We have to remember that some might also be using a pc from the fruit company. So optimally a guide that step by step list what has to be done initially to get edl up on either Linux/Windows/Mac, and then a (almost?) common step by step guide on how to retrieve the persist the first time, and flash all the needed (including the saved persist) I'm sure that if anyone would do the work to create such a guide, it coul

(took the liberty to clarify in the title that it is not an issue with the camera function but the camera housing)

Well the problem here is that it is sticking out, so very hard to not press it inadvertently. Every time you put it on a table (without a shell or case) it will get a slight bump, also using the keyboard placed at a table every key press, will press slightly on the camera... So I would strongly suggest all Pro1X users to consider using a case OR at the very least add some suitable strip of self-adhesive rubber, at the least 1-1½mm thick along the long or short edge towards the camera, (can be found for next to nothing on ebay, thou bot likely in blue), so that the rubber hits the table first

The Pro1X camera do protrude about 0.8mm, which is more than on the Pro1, where it is less than what I can measure.

Danish passports with chips has an antenna like the travellers card above, and has the same issues. Can be read by the Pro1X, but not easily. I would guess it is the same system for all (or at the least many) countries with passports with chips.

Yes, there is a small Hall sensor in one half and a magnet in the other. Seen in landscape, it is slightly above the USB, and if I remember correctly about 1cm in. Add from here The sensor is near the camera button about 12mm closer to the keyboard, and roughly 5mm in from the USB edge You could also display the image from here full size on the Pro1 display...

well I guess that would require an additional variant of the guide, aimed at edl.

I saw it initially but have not seen it since. But would be REALLY surprised if some magic secret update should have been issued that does not even change the build/number. More likely it is something that disappears after 'something', the big question then is what that 'something' is. Could be as simple as a boot, but sound unlikely that those having the issue have not booted.

I got all three working, after studying the antennas, and it is really picky on how it is placed for the credit cards with the 'large' antennas.

I tried to look a little closer at the antennas The simple foil tag (outer circle about 25mm): Put light through the travellers card and the credit cards to see antenna structure of the two cards. (and recreated in paint, not exact measurements at all) This is the one that is seen but is really hard to get working And this one with a fairly complex antenna loop is usually completely ignored, but I CAN get it working, holding it exactly right! (all three works flawlessly on the Pro1)

(....Personally I would not use any phone for lo light images of anything but still motives. My personal pocketable favourite here is the Rx100III by Sony...)