USB-port. On replacement of the port on the board

[VaZso 1,998]

On 4/15/2022 at 11:50 PM, CornholioGSM said:

I cannot reccomend t-8000 or any t/d-8000-7000 etc glues. They have problems on sumer temperatures 😞

If you are in europe, then buy pattex 100% gel....by me is tested on hundreds phones 🙂

I don't know if T-XXXX glue's temperature dependence was the cause of my last screen problem (which lived longer than my stock screen) as it looked to be still holding relatively well, but I know this kind of glue and I also have an almost empty tube of Palmatex Pattex glue at home which is a good glue for gluing flexible materials but I have simply did not think of using it for screen fixing and everybody wrote about T-XXXX.

However, I have replaced my screen again last Sunday and now I have used Pattex for fixing.

I also had a USB port problem since a lot of months and I have not received the promised replacement board yet but the connector became completely unusable - I mean it was only charging in a very limited positions and a lot of times it lost charging about one or two hours later, so it usually could not charge overnight anymore also using different tricks...

I have disassembled the phone to see if it has soldering problems (as I felt I can move charging connector sideways to charge a bit) but the problem was not like this at all, soldering was intact and it was not moving.
I have tried to clean its connectors inside anyway without success, it was simply worn.

So I had to disassemble my spare phone which was imperfect since the very first time I received it (arrived with cracked display frame and excessive rattling) but I did not want to disassemble it, I simply had to do in order to have a working USB panel. 😞

So, currently I have a fully working Pro1 and another one disassembled waiting for a replacement USB board.

Anyway, does anybody have an idea what kind of USB connector they are using?
I have asked them in e-mail so if we may have a chance to replace the connector itself but they did not respond.

Here the connector is:

The plastic part of the connector did not look this ugly but I have tried to resolder these pins in order to see if it helps anything (so if it may has a brittle fracture not seen by eye but it did not change anything).

So what I find interesting is it has 2x6 pins but also a gap in-between and I have not found any connectors which has a gap in the middle at all... the number on top of this connector is 1811807.

Edited April 23, 2022 by VaZso

[suicidal_orange 100]

Looking at USB-C connectors the surface mount ones seem to have 15 pins, you have 12 pins and 3 holes.  Usually the surface mount soldering tabs stick out the back though (so they can be soldered) while you had to melt the plastic.  The through hole connectors have 12 pins but no gap so if it's one of them it's weird...

Do your pins go through the PCB or not?

[VaZso 1,998]

5 hours ago, suicidal_orange said:

Do your pins go through the PCB or not?

No - there are four housing fixing which goes through.
I don't know if there are additional pins under the connector (which solution also exists but in different layout).

So yes, it has twelve visible pins.

Anyway, by looking at Type-C connector pinout:

It practically only has 12 pins.
The only difference between these two rows are SBU1/SBU2 and CC1/CC2 but these are the same connectors for different cable orientations.

However, I don't know what pins are used for HDMI alternative mode.

I have found another drawing:

Theoretically TX1/RX1 and TX2/RX2 may address different USB ports but I would not think it is connected to different USB port at hardware side...

So, practically it seems to only has 12 different connections.

[theory 15]

If you go look at the available PC board mount jacks, every one I have found actually brings all 24 pins out to the PC board individually...

And I've looked at about 30 so far...

To actually run at full 'C' speeds, the TX1/RX1 and TX2/RX2 sets have to go to different pins on the chip that runs the interface.

BTW, the pictures shown on Mouser, Digi-Key and other supply houses are often generic...  You usually have to dig into the data sheet to find the actual pin spacing and layout...

--

 

[VaZso 1,998]

5 hours ago, theory said:

If you go look at the available PC board mount jacks, every one I have found actually brings all 24 pins out to the PC board individually...

Yes, basically connectors provide all pins at board side.

5 hours ago, theory said:

To actually run at full 'C' speeds, the TX1/RX1 and TX2/RX2 sets have to go to different pins on the chip that runs the interface.

I haven't designed USB3 connections yet (microcontrollers I use have USB2 interfaces) but if I look at USB3 pinouts, it looks like this:

So it has a USB2 data pair and additional RX/TX data pairs.
(These are differential wires, so RX- and RX+, also TX- and TX+ belong together and TX provides transmit and RX provides receive direction.)

So for USB3 connection, it has three wire pairs altogether.

I wrote above it may be connected to a second transmitter/receiver and I don't know how display connection works, so, for example, if HDMI alternative mode uses these additional pins or what happens.

Also, there are special connectors like a Type-C which only has 6 pins and provides USB2 interface but not USB3 at all, so other connectors with reduced pins may also be available.

5 hours ago, theory said:

BTW, the pictures shown on Mouser, Digi-Key and other supply houses are often generic...  You usually have to dig into the data sheet to find the actual pin spacing and layout...

Right, that is  why it is not easy to find the right connector, especially if it is not a general connector (all connections wired to board).

[CornholioGSM 331]

On 4/24/2022 at 1:36 AM, VaZso said:

I don't know if T-XXXX glue's temperature dependence was the cause of my last screen problem (which lived longer than my stock screen) as it looked to be still holding relatively well, but I know this kind of glue and I also have an almost empty tube of Palmatex Pattex glue at home which is a good glue for gluing flexible materials but I have simply did not think of using it for screen fixing and everybody wrote about T-XXXX.

However, I have replaced my screen again last Sunday and now I have used Pattex for fixing.

I also had a USB port problem since a lot of months and I have not received the promised replacement board yet but the connector became completely unusable - I mean it was only charging in a very limited positions and a lot of times it lost charging about one or two hours later, so it usually could not charge overnight anymore also using different tricks...

I have disassembled the phone to see if it has soldering problems (as I felt I can move charging connector sideways to charge a bit) but the problem was not like this at all, soldering was intact and it was not moving.
I have tried to clean its connectors inside anyway without success, it was simply worn.

So I had to disassemble my spare phone which was imperfect since the very first time I received it (arrived with cracked display frame and excessive rattling) but I did not want to disassemble it, I simply had to do in order to have a working USB panel. 😞

So, currently I have a fully working Pro1 and another one disassembled waiting for a replacement USB board.

Anyway, does anybody have an idea what kind of USB connector they are using?
I have asked them in e-mail so if we may have a chance to replace the connector itself but they did not respond.

Here the connector is:

The plastic part of the connector did not look this ugly but I have tried to resolder these pins in order to see if it helps anything (so if it may has a brittle fracture not seen by eye but it did not change anything).

So what I find interesting is it has 2x6 pins but also a gap in-between and I have not found any connectors which has a gap in the middle at all... the number on top of this connector is 1811807.

Looks like this connector have hidden one row of pins...it must be soldered with hotair or infrared.

...post photo of another side...are visible pins?

you have visible 6pin - gap - 6pin correct?

Check my pic what i mean

 

EDIT...check this :

Edited April 25, 2022 by CornholioGSM

[VaZso 1,998]

1 hour ago, CornholioGSM said:

Right, this one looks to be identical.

I have found similar connectors like what you have linked in your first photo but not what you have linked later (quoted above).

This connector can be ordered here anyway.

This kind of hidden row makes replacing the connector harder but it is not impossible.

I hope there are no similar connectors exist with different wirings - this one looks to be identical based on back row and through-hole fixings.

Thank you very much you have found it, I have just ordered a set.

[CornholioGSM 331]

it is possible to change it 🙂 .....but sometime i have problem, that i customer have broken / missing pins....then is it littlebit harder and is needed to made new ways with enameled wires.

 

[VaZso 1,998]

2 hours ago, CornholioGSM said:

it is possible to change it 🙂 .....but sometime i have problem, that i customer have broken / missing pins....then is it littlebit harder and is needed to made new ways with enameled wires.

True - missing pins (soldering pads) are a common problem of mechanically disconnected solderings.

It may still happen that second row had released solderings for me although I do not see it is mechanically moving or at least not the outer case of my connector.

These are very thin wires and soldering pads so there is a high chance if connection releases, then soldering pad will break.

Also there is a chance for damaging soldering pads during the removal of connector as if soldering was not melted at all wires when connector was removed, that will easily tear off the soldering pad itself.

It was much easier to re-wire missing soldering pads of mechanically broken micro USB connectors anyway as it had much fewer pins. 🙂

[CornholioGSM 331]

1 hour ago, VaZso said:

True - missing pins (soldering pads) are a common problem of mechanically disconnected solderings.

It may still happen that second row had released solderings for me although I do not see it is mechanically moving or at least not the outer case of my connector.

These are very thin wires and soldering pads so there is a high chance if connection releases, then soldering pad will break.

Also there is a chance for damaging soldering pads during the removal of connector as if soldering was not melted at all wires when connector was removed, that will easily tear off the soldering pad itself.

It was much easier to re-wire missing soldering pads of mechanically broken micro USB connectors anyway as it had much fewer pins. 🙂

...exactly as you say...thats why i hate c connectors...and work on it.

Sometime are pads too smashed and is impossible to make bypass for all missing pins...then is solution made bypass only for data and charging.

On removing...use around 330celsius and head connector from top...it must be really fully released. If is near microphone, then cover it with kapton tape and if mic have hole on another mobo side then cover this hole too...mic can be smashed really quickly with hot air!

...then remove all old tin from holes for connector frame.Put new tin on all pads(same amount - not too much), put on it really small amount of solder flux (i use warton smd rework jelly).

Now it is littlebit tricky...put connector into cleaned holes, fix board AND heat it with hotair from another side - heat it through board - and only with 250C...and wait - connector must "sit down". Finally solder connector frame with classic soldering station.

 

Thats all..

Simple 🙂

 

....sorry my english is not good for long stories 🙂

Edited April 25, 2022 by CornholioGSM

[VaZso 1,998]

31 minutes ago, CornholioGSM said:

...exactly as you say...thats why i hate c connectors...and work on it.

Right, it has too many and really small connections...

Anyway, one older connector which I did not like is the wide USB3.0 microB connector.
Simply because it was much easier to tear off together with pads and it also has some additional electrical connections...

I really hope pads underneath my connector are still intact and removal of connector will be successful. 🙂

[EskeRahn 5,459]

@VaZso I took the liberty to split this into a separate thread.
Could you please (re)-answer on the display  part in the original thread, and edit it out of the main post in this thread?

[EskeRahn 5,459]

...I wish they would offer the usb-board as a spare, e.g. on IGG, I would certainly buy some, as this always is a vulnerable part of any phone expected to have a long life.

[claude0001 1,340]

12 hours ago, EskeRahn said:

...I wish they would offer the usb-board as a spare, e.g. on IGG, I would certainly buy some, as this always is a vulnerable part of any phone expected to have a long life.

This.

I recall they designed the Pro1 specifically to have the USB port on a dedicated board (and thus easily replaceable) as the USB socket was a well-known weak point of the N900 (where it was directly soldered to the mainboard). But without spare parts, that design effort was futile at best ...

[Kaali 76]

I had the exact same charging problems and only the cable connectincg the usb board to the main board was loose, the connector is shown in your picture. Just snapped it back in firmly and never had any problems since.

[pebert 98]

Molex 1054500101

 

Maybe this can be the correct connector?

 

[VaZso 1,998]

 

1 hour ago, pebert said:

Molex 1054500101

Maybe this can be the correct connector?

At first glance, it looks to be the right one.

However, the one quoted below is correct (#7):

On 4/25/2022 at 6:45 PM, VaZso said:

Right, this one looks to be identical.

I have found similar connectors like what you have linked in your first photo but not what you have linked later (quoted above).

This connector can be ordered here anyway.

This kind of hidden row makes replacing the connector harder but it is not impossible.

I hope there are no similar connectors exist with different wirings - this one looks to be identical based on back row and through-hole fixings.

Thank you very much you have found it, I have just ordered a set.

 

Edited June 28, 2022 by VaZso

[pebert 98]

was more thinking that it´s a more relaiable source with a MOLEX connector that you can buy in a lot of different places, with short delivery lead time.

 

I will order some from Mouser to test with. 

Looked a the USB-PCB from my crashed phone, if I could  reuse that PCB to prepare it  for a fast swap. But that PCB is quite bent, so I doubt it will work. 

//Per

[Tomatoman29 11]

Hi people, I am a Pro1 user for over a two years right now and I broke my USB socket. So if I am reading this and other topics correctly, the biggest advantage of this phone became its biggest mistake and fxtec does not only even have replacement part to be bought to fix own Pro1 but also does not responding to the emails, am I right? How screwed I am? There is any chance to buy the USB socket assembly? 

I sent an email to fxtec but if they are not even responding then I have no Idea what to do. 

Edited July 11, 2022 by Tomatoman29

[Hook 3,017]

1 hour ago, Tomatoman29 said:

Hi people, I am a Pro1 user for over a two years right now and I broke my USB socket. So if I am reading this and other topics correctly, the biggest advantage of this phone became its biggest mistake and fxtec does not only even have replacement part to be bought to fix own Pro1 but also does not responding to the emails, am I right? How screwed I am? There is any chance to buy the USB socket assembly? 

I sent an email to fxtec but if they are not even responding then I have no Idea what to do. 

How long ago did you email FxTec?  They can take two weeks to answer.  It could be longer with the current efforts to push out the Pro1x.  They may have the spare part since ordering parts for the Pro1x allowed them to get some extra inventory of parts that are identical for the Pro1 and Pro1x (and I believe this is one of them).

I assume when you emailed that you got a robo-acknowledgement at least.  If not, you may have not succeeded in reaching them.

Others here can be of more help in sourcing the part yourself, but give FxTec a little extra time.

 

[VaZso 1,998]

8 hours ago, Hook said:

They may have the spare part since ordering parts for the Pro1x allowed them to get some extra inventory of parts that are identical for the Pro1 and Pro1x (and I believe this is one of them).

Earlier they wrote USB panel is not identical because they had to redesign it as a result of reception problems regarding Pro1X.

However, it may be compatible with Pro1 but different wiring or additional chips installed.

[Rob. S. 1,660]

Just for the record, I've been in contact again lately with Fxtec asking whether there was anything to be done with regard to my USB connector and my screen, for which I'd prefer an original replacement because of the margins problem. Of course I'd want the screen only if I can get the USB fixed, too. They came back quickly informing me that displays were currently available; then they wanted me to confirm whether I meant the device's USB socket, which I did. It's been a few days since then, but let's see what comes out of it.

[Bob78 0]

Bit more on mine It has now got to the point that it will only charge under plug tension. in other words I have to place a weight on the charge cable and pull the phone away against the weight .It then charges quite reliably. No way to work long term any cure spring to mind ? It has to be a phisical fault.

[VaZso 1,998]

2 hours ago, Bob78 said:

Bit more on mine It has now got to the point that it will only charge under plug tension. in other words I have to place a weight on the charge cable and pull the phone away against the weight .It then charges quite reliably. No way to work long term any cure spring to mind ? It has to be a phisical fault.

Unfortunately, it has started the same way for me (prior to this point, it could charge relatively reliably only at one direction of Type-C connection).

[EskeRahn 5,459]

Odd that they did not have those as a spare part on IGG.

Be aware that that the port is NOT at the same position in the frame for pro1 and proX (sits higher on the X), so MIGHT be different pcb as well.