claude0001
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Posts posted by claude0001
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On 9/28/2022 at 12:27 PM, claude0001 said:
But what does this mean regarding native HDMI-support in Android/LineageOS. Will it ever work?
What about the convergence mode of UbuntuTouch? Any hope for that?
Replying to my own question: Seems like it doesn't look very good for HDMI-out on the Pro1X, at least when it comes to alternative OS's.
Unsurprisingly, I can confirm that my all-in-one UGREEN USB-C dock, which works flawlessly with the Pro1, does nothing regarding HDMI when connected to the Pro1X (also Ethernet does not work with the X btw ...).
After a bit of reading, I wonder whether the solution that was presented during development of the Pro1X is actually using any native "HDMI-out" features of the SoC. Rather, it seems to implement an MHL interface and needs a proprietary APK to send the screen content to the HDMI-end via USB. This might explain why Apps for playing DRM-protected content (Netflix, Amazon Prime, ...) cannot display on the HDMI screen, as admitted in the product descriptions.
Watching Netflix on a hotel TV was the only practical use I've ever made of my Pro1's HDMI-out. Bummer ...
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On 11/3/2022 at 8:01 AM, IMD said:
I think it is not related with temp or charging state.
So I started playing around with my Pro1-X again.
After the device being shelved for ~1.5 weeks, the battery is now at 61% and /sys/class/power_supply/battery/voltage_now never exceeds 3870000 µV. In this state, I cannot reproduce the speaker issue!
So, maybe, it indeed occurs only on brand-new devices (and batteries) where the voltage exceeds 4.1 V significantly after charge ... ? This might explain why the problem goes away after some time of using the Pro1-X.
edit: Re-charging the Pro1-X now, to check whether the problem comes back with battery full.
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5 hours ago, JECE said:
As in, should I raise my old complaints about the faulty speaker on the device that I mentioned before?
Without knowing how well they are prepared for handling mixed tickets, my gut feeling is it is probably better not mix.
The tapping-sound problem with the bottom speaker has been reported by several users (including myself) in another thread and there are hints this may be a firmware/software problem they are working on. @Casey promised to take home our reports and come back to us once more is known.
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On 11/4/2022 at 10:56 PM, brunoais said:
I'm using OS V. 2.1.5 non-GMS.
2.1.5-GMS-less also here. And the problem is definitely there. So whatever fix they prepare, it's not in that ROM.
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1 hour ago, EskeRahn said:
Usually that shift is invisble for the user though
Well, let's say they are not "apparent" during normal usage. But @Rob. S. is specifically using advanced tools to monitor the charging process. I guess, otherwise he would also not notice this.
Might be somethign else in the end, but especially the fact that the current decreases towards the end of the charge is pretty normal, I think. I see that also when charging my Pro1 using my solar-panel charger (which includes a built-in current gauge).
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As far as I know, there is a switch from current-control (i.e. constant charging current) to voltage-control (constant charging voltage) at some point during the charge, which leads to a decreasing current as the charge reaches its maximum value. I thought that was standard for any Li-ion battery.
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1 hour ago, thodin said:
If anyone needs this file
There is an unofficial website that keeps track of all LOS versions no longer available at lineageos.org:
https://lineageosroms.com/pro1/
Haven't used it and don't know how reliable they are. But if the code is signed ...
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3 hours ago, IMD said:
I want schematics...
Before we tear our phones apart any further it would be good to know whether F(x)tec are indeed aware of this problem and are planning a fix via firmware update. The (initial) October update can be interpreted in that way, but the wording is quite vague ...
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I use my Pro1 as daily driver with my self-built LineageOS 16.0 and a Debian 10 (actually Devuan 3) desktop GNU/Linux system running permanently in a chroot. For me this is the optimal combination of an Android(-like) environment with the option to do serious (desktop) work from the GNU chroot.
Of course, running a more native GNU/Linux system (if we agree on calling libhybris-based hacks "native" 😉 ) like UbuntuTouch, Sailfish, or Droidian is tempting, but -- realistically -- I cannot make it through the day without some Android apps I would not know how to replace (Firefox, Zoom, Öffi, Zoo for Zotero, ...) and I do not want to rely on something like Waydroid or Anbox for my job.
My Pro1X seems very promising (except for the right-speaker-bug that hopefully will be solved somehow). The keyboard responsiveness is much better than that of my >2 year old Pro1. The graphics performance is much worse, as expected, but I do not use the Pro1 much for gaming either. Currently my Pro1X is more or less shelved, but once LineageOS becomes somewhat stable, I will try to migrate my Pro1 setup to it.
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@IMD seems to be absolutely right. The speaker failures occur only when /sys/class/power_supply/battery/voltage_now exceeds approx. 4100000 µV. This explains naturally why the phenomenon is more apparent when connected to a charger.
The question remains whether F(x)tec will indeed be able to fix this by a firmware update, or not ... 😞
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So I did open the phone yesterday and could not fix the issue using @spam71's recipe. I fiddled a lot with the spring contacts to the speaker, even while playing music through it: The problem seems to be independent of the electrical contact.
The popping does seem to come and go also in my case. Sometimes the speaker works at all volume levels, sometimes only at highest gain.
I will test if there is a correlation with the level of the battery charge. Thanks for the hint @IMD.
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Consider that, concerning non-working sensors, the recommendation to do a full backup of the original Android system is largely obsoleted by the latest edit of the OP of this thread:
Concerning your connection troubles, I can only recommend to try different (USB) hardware. I ended up doing all my adb/fastboot business from a Raspberry Pi3 as my Thinkpads are seemingly to "advanced" for the purpose ...
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45 minutes ago, Name_not_avail said:
the difference between slot a and slot b, and whether I have screwed something up
I think it is unlikely you damaged anything.
As you probably know, the A and B slots are a kind of safety net that (among others) allows the device to keep the previously running OS "in reserve" whenever an update is installed. The active slot basically flips between A and B everytime a new ROM is flashed. So whether A or B is the "right" one for installing Magisk simply depends on the number of previous flashings being even or odd.
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For the record: @Casey's instructions did work for me. It automagically flashed the right slot, which I think was "b" in my case.
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21 minutes ago, FlyingAntero said:
Pro1 supports Qualcomm Quick Charge 3.0 which is not compatible with USB PD
Well, the OP wonders why, obviously, the PSU and the Pro1 cannot agree on any charging protocol, which is strange indeed. Depending on the power source, my Pro1 seems to distinguish between three different charging modes: "charging slowly", "charging", and "charging rapidly". The last is probably chosen only if the PSU explicitly supports Qualcomm QC.
Electrically, one of the lower two modes should always be possible. I've been charging my Pro1 with solar panels ... 😎
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1 hour ago, VaZso said:
So basically screen seems to be okay (sensing all of its area) but it is insensitive for touches at the edge of the screen.
If you look again at the OP of this thread, the behaviour you observe is exactly as described for a screen having not reveived the "Stock-firmware-magic": The outer ~7 mm are insensitive to tapping but still correctly register dragging your finger form the central area outwards.
I had understood stock Android 9 does its touch-calibration thing only on first boot. So just connecting the screen to an already-installed stock-Pro1 might not be enough. I would try to facory-reset the "calibrating" device first.
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I guess @Tommi69preordered an original Pro1 via the f(x)tec website and was later "upgraded" to a Pro1X. As such he is eligible for refund while IGG backers are not.
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15 minutes ago, Hook said:
What @claude0001 is talking about, I think, is the frame. The frame is what separates out when you undo the 5 screws and disconnect the ribbon cable.
Exactly, that's what I mean and what I tried to swap among my Pro1 and Pro1X.
I also thought that was the unit you can obtain from f(x)tec as "replacement screen".
Thanks for clarifying.
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14 minutes ago, Casey said:
Yes, I mean the detachable screen itself, not the entire upper housing.
Sorry, I'm getting confused.
I thought the replacement "screen" you ship as spare part includes the upper housing. I.e. replacment using your part does not involve glueing?
So are you saying the top assemblys of Pro1 and Pro1X were already known to be different parts, and in addition you found out that even the screens themselves are incompatible?
Wouldn't this mean that also the Elephone U/U Pro screens from Aliexpress people have successfully used for repairing their Pro1s would no longer work with the Pro1X?
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7 minutes ago, Casey said:
Yes, the screen is the same, however I think there's some sw/hw compatibility issue with the Pro1 screen on the Pro1-X body.
Interesting. Just to be sure: When you say "screen" do you mean the entire top unit (detachable by 5 screws from the mechanism) or just the display (as available from e.g. Aliexpress) that is glued to the rest of the top unit?
As reported above, I tried operating the Pro1X top unit on the Pro1. The display and digitizer seemed to work fine in recovery, but the Pro1 wouldn't boot into the full OS.
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On 10/27/2022 at 1:55 AM, EskeRahn said:
There are many functions where the unit or its controller could be somewhat different: Camera, speaker, proximity sensor, ambient light sensor, hall sensor (for lid closed)...
I guess you might be right. I was firmly assuming they had kept that unit identical to keep development cost low. But then, the different SoC on the other side may have dictated some modifications ... Retrospectively, I consider myself lucky not to have damaged anything with my bold move two days ago 😆.
For those owning both a Pro1 and a Pro1X it would be good to know for sure, though.
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23 minutes ago, FlyingAntero said:
However, I am happy that F(x)tec helped developers with custom ROMs etc. At least we have an update patch that way.
The problem is that security issues in the binary blobs owned by Qualcomm are not going to be fixed. Even LineageOS 19.1 is still on the "vendor security" level of April 2020.
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As @Hook wrote, there will be no more official updates of Android 9 for the Pro1, let alone upgrades to newer major releases.
While there are several options to get your Pro1 an up-to-date OS, LineageOS is certainly the least obscure and, combined with a suitable distribution of the Google Apps, will give you the most "Android-like" experience.
Installing LineageOS on the Pro1 is easy if you follow the instructions in the Wiki: https://wiki.lineageos.org/devices/pro1/. Presently, the officially supported release is LineageOS 19.1, which is based on the Android 12 Open Source Project (AOSP).
Please especially note the advice about backing up you data before flashing LineageOS or be prepared to lose it.
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Pro1X - problems with bottom=right loudspeaker - repair guide.
in How Tos
Posted
So, the speaker issue is definitely improving.
With the battery fully charged (and /sys/class/power_supply/battery/voltage_now >~ 4100000 µV), the tapping sound reappeared sometimes while changing the volume of a playing youtube video, though not to the extend to make the video unwatchable.
Now, with the battery charge at 72% (/sys/class/power_supply/battery/voltage_now ~ 4000000 µV), I'm back to "cannot reproduce" ...
I am now quite confident that this problem will quickly go away with ageing of the battery, as others have observed, and I regret opening the Pro1-X for this (breaking a grand total of three of the tiny grounding springs surrounding the board in the process - do not insert your spudger to deep while opening the bottom shell!).