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When has your keyboard stopped working anyway? Did it work before replacing the screen? If I²C was not working, other devices on the bus were also missing. Any devices can stop the whole I²C bus easily by pulling down data or clock wires but that would also stop other devices on the bus to work. So the bus itself (that part of the SoC) is working. Anyway, have you used a metal tool to disconnect connectors? Naturally, replacing the motherboard would help but even F(x)tec does not have replacement motherboards for Pro1 as far as I know. My suspect is somehow you mad

Definitively not. It should be a multi-layer board and a discontinuity simply can happen at an inner layer. However, connector may be accessible (not easily but may be soldered) and an appropriate power wire could be picked but without documentation it is not easy, also BGA packages do not help at all. Maybe one usable 3rd-party info would be a pinout of display's wiring itself - it may happen it may be reachable somehow and may be checked if appropriate power wires are present, also it may happen power wire of display part may be used to powering touch, but these are only tips from f

Interesting... it sounds really strange you have more parts which are not working... do you also have other devices on I2C-6 what I wrote earlier? Naturally I don't know Pro1's schematics but another idea may be a missing power line somewhere - so at least for touch panel, I²C line seems to be working. It uses two wires, an SDA (data) and SCL (clock) signal... device may have other pins like interrupt but basically two other pins are needed which are VCC and GND. So if these parts are otherwise working and SCL/SDA lines are connected, then either power does not reach these ICs or GND

Then I would think of a discontinuity somewhere which may be a not properly plugged cable (between main board and display) or really a touch controller (practically display) fault. You may also check visually if there are any problems with display cable or its connectors (like a deformed pin). So connections, connectors, display cables and also display can be the potential cause of your problem.

Do you see other devices on the bus? So in my case, also 0x08 and 0x09 exist, how about you? Right, it may happen a simple disconnection or an unfortunate event your display has a faulty touch controller, but I²C may also stall and that is why it is interesting if you see other devices on the bus.

It may happen - @agent008, maybe it worth a try to check if i2c-7 has a device address 0x14 using i2cdetect, so if touch controller replies to its address or it is simply inaccessible. However, it needs root privileges. It should look something like this (if querying all addresses): ~ $ sudo i2cdetect 7 Probe chips 0x03-0x77 on bus 7? (Y/n):y 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 a b c d e f 00: -- -- -- -- -- UU 09 -- -- -- -- -- -- 10: -- -- -- -- UU -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 20: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 30: -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- --

Okay, so it seems 0x14 is the default address for gt1x touch panel instead of 0x5D, see here: So basically gt1x codes which use address 0x5d seem to speak about the same thing.

I think Windows makes it harder. 🙂 Your problem may be potentially related to the USB port you use. Try to find a port which does not have other devices attached as EDL is really picky for timings. Edit: I mean in your computer there are USB HUBs which have more or less devices attached and usually not all ports on your PC are connected to the same root HUB. Devices connected to a root HUB (like internal web camera, WLAN or other components) may generate interrupts which delays communication with the phone and may cause update process running into an error.

Anyway, device 0x58 is in use by aw9523b which basically is the keyboard, 0x28 is used by nq-nci which is the NFC controller, 0x08 is used by i2c-pmic, there is a 0x38 which is used by fts, 0x4a which is used by mxt-ts and 0x14 which is used by gt1x module. So it seems touch panel is connected to bus i2c-7 at address 0x14.

Anyway, Pro1's touch driver seems to be called "gt1x" and it is an I2C device. There is a related code at GitHUB which also has an update code. Also, i2cdetect shows two buses on Pro1, i2c-6 and i2c-7. In former, there are devices at address 0x28 and 0x58 and in latter, at address 0x08, 0x09 and 0x14 where all devices are seem to be used by a driver except 0x09. However, based on gt1x_generic.h, I2C address of touch panel should be 0x5D (if that is the same device). There may be other I2C buses which are not accessible through dev filesystem... Also, i2c-7 has an owner of

I have checked and "CONFIG_GTP_AUTO_UPDATE" is not set in config (LOS 18.1)... ...however, as far as I know, SailfishOS also uses stock Android kernel just like how LOS does, so I don't really understand why this option would be enabled under SailfishOS. However, at least the proper firmware is there and somewhere there should be a solution to access display's firmware...

I would say very hard... ...I am still waiting for the promised replacement USB board and I had to disassemble my spare Pro1 to get a working board which was a Pro1 what arrived with cracked display frame and excessive rattling what prevented me to use that device for testing or developing.... So practically it was a step I had to make in order to continue using my Pro1 which otherwise worked and which is more than two years old now...

Interesting that practically I did not have such an issue under 18.1 I had a very bad USB port which has caused a lot of issues for me, including close to keep charging or even depleting during night, so I had to reach a state where it shows "charging" instead of "slow charging" and it worked or at least worked for a short while having to reconnect agan for further charge. That was something like a contact issue for me. My current USB panel is new and I don't have any charging issues...

Thanks. I will wait a bit further till I have more time so I hope every potential problems reveal. 🙂 Anyway, how about further restrictions of SDCard access under Androdi 12?

It is a bit expensive but they sell the screen together with frame and a battery if you look at their IGG site. I don't know when they are going to ship them but hopefully it may happen soon as mass manufacturing of Pro1-X is really happening... ...but still ordering from Aliexpress may be faster...

I did not have such a problem with my daily driver but that display has gone a long time ago. Every displays I bough then (from Aliexpress) had one or two smaller or bigger black spots at corners, but they are small... ...also one of them had a bigger black circle in a very wrong position of the display, but that was only one of them. However, my second Pro1 which arrived with a cracked display frame (only frame) and excessive rattling problem and which was repaired by F(x)tec (maybe screen assembly replacement, rattling remained)... so I have charged that phone before I changed it

Order a display for Elephone U Pro then find somebody who can do the replacement for you if you did not do similar job earlier. The process is much easier than other phones. However, such displays on Aliexpress usually have one/two small problems (dark places) at display edges but otherwise these are working displays.

Right, it has too many and really small connections... Anyway, one older connector which I did not like is the wide USB3.0 microB connector. Simply because it was much easier to tear off together with pads and it also has some additional electrical connections... I really hope pads underneath my connector are still intact and removal of connector will be successful. 🙂

True - missing pins (soldering pads) are a common problem of mechanically disconnected solderings. It may still happen that second row had released solderings for me although I do not see it is mechanically moving or at least not the outer case of my connector. These are very thin wires and soldering pads so there is a high chance if connection releases, then soldering pad will break. Also there is a chance for damaging soldering pads during the removal of connector as if soldering was not melted at all wires when connector was removed, that will easily tear off the soldering pa

Only 4G/4G+, it does not support 5G.

Right, this one looks to be identical. I have found similar connectors like what you have linked in your first photo but not what you have linked later (quoted above). This connector can be ordered here anyway. This kind of hidden row makes replacing the connector harder but it is not impossible. I hope there are no similar connectors exist with different wirings - this one looks to be identical based on back row and through-hole fixings. Thank you very much you have found it, I have just ordered a set.

Yes, basically connectors provide all pins at board side. I haven't designed USB3 connections yet (microcontrollers I use have USB2 interfaces) but if I look at USB3 pinouts, it looks like this: So it has a USB2 data pair and additional RX/TX data pairs. (These are differential wires, so RX- and RX+, also TX- and TX+ belong together and TX provides transmit and RX provides receive direction.) So for USB3 connection, it has three wire pairs altogether. I wrote above it may be connected to a second transmitter/receiver and I don't know how display connection works,

No - there are four housing fixing which goes through. I don't know if there are additional pins under the connector (which solution also exists but in different layout). So yes, it has twelve visible pins. Anyway, by looking at Type-C connector pinout: It practically only has 12 pins. The only difference between these two rows are SBU1/SBU2 and CC1/CC2 but these are the same connectors for different cable orientations. However, I don't know what pins are used for HDMI alternative mode. I have found another drawing: Theoretically TX1/RX1 and TX2/RX2 may a

I don't know if T-XXXX glue's temperature dependence was the cause of my last screen problem (which lived longer than my stock screen) as it looked to be still holding relatively well, but I know this kind of glue and I also have an almost empty tube of Palmatex Pattex glue at home which is a good glue for gluing flexible materials but I have simply did not think of using it for screen fixing and everybody wrote about T-XXXX. However, I have replaced my screen again last Sunday and now I have used Pattex for fixing. I also had a USB port problem since a lot of months and I have not r

You will not need a heat gun to disassemble the base part but after unscrewing its screws, you need to have something really thin to detach clips and also to ensure you will not hurt the phone... it holds together really tight also without screws... Anyway, I have heard USB board itself may cause such behaviour, so it may happen you will only need a replacement USB board. Also, if you disassemble your phone, you may check its connectors (basically under a metal part which helps these connectors to remain in place). If they are connected well, I would also try to switch the phone on