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Same for me. I have decided to go for Lineage OS instead of resetting stock one when I have time and mood for doing that...

I think it basically has a fair price.

Are you a collector? 😄

Hi, I basically satisfied with the display ordered from Aliexpress, so I may order it again as basically it only has a minor problem at a corner. However, it may also arrive in a month or so. I don't know where do you live, but @EvilDragon may have some of them for sale, at least if I remember well, he wanted to order replacement screens for repair and maybe for selling them, I just mention him because it may be faster unless you live in the USA. So these are the same displays (if he has them) what you may bought from Aliexpress, not from F(x)tec.

Exactly. You may also try Finqwerty if you would like to use other layouts fit for QWERTZ keyboard.

It works with Pro1, however, a bit more complicated to replace as it does not come together with a frame. However, as far as I have found, these displays (at Aliexpress) are not perfect, so you should expect some (mostly minor) problems like smaller or bigger blank (black surface) area at one or two corners. I have even received a display which has a relatively large black spot in a very wrong place. So, generally they are useable, but some minor problems (mostly acceptable) are exists, so it is unlikely you will receive an absolutely perfect one. I have replaced my display

Where you press is the very same location this wide ribbon cable sits. Which part of the PCB you have taped? Currently I have only found an inside photo of the display assemble here. This is the image. The display itself is very close to this side - the plastic is thin, and it even has some holes and what you see there is the display itself. More correctly, the copper-coloured part is the display where it is sticky, and gray-coloured conductive tape is glued to the part in question, so the ribbon cable is under it. If you smooth that part of the display assembly, you practical

I was thinking of the bracket the LCD is glued to. Maybe it is easier to check when the keyboard is open, so you may press it against the metal back frame ...but it seems it is not moving in your case or at least it is not noticeable.

It may happen it gets worse when something touches / bends the wide flex cable coming behind the screen at the bottom short edge (top in the photo earlier). What I know is Pro1's top frame was made of plastic while Elephone's top frame is metal. ...but I don't think that is a problem, although I would be more happy if the outer curved part was metal. Also, the bottom part of the frame assembly is metal with fixing screws, I don't think it really moves inside if the glue fixing the display does not loosen. However, if the glue loosens around the screen, especially at the lower sid

If I remember well, I have only read issues with replaced displays having problems after a short while (not touch related but vertical lines appearing which may also be a cable issue anyway). These are about displays ordered from Ali / Ebay. So that may also be caused by bad quality displays or even not properly replaced ones. I have not found general issues anyway - also I do not know why some of these displays were replaced, so anything other than physical issue (also I read a lot more of Pro1 than Elephone). Moreover, I don't know if we may call it a general issue with Pro1

Anyway, I assume the "pocket dirt" I have found when replaced my original display was at the same part where the display's ribbon is located. It was relatively high amount, so it may happen it could go at the edge of the display, pressing the ribbon cable from top and causing some movement, which finally resulted in loose connection after around 8 months of use.

It may also be a design flaw of the display itself anyway or something which may go below the screen causing some pressure at a wrong place.

Okay, I have looked at my previous display now. So... if you hold the phone in portrait mode, the problem lies at the bottom of the display. That is the very same position what I had to press in order to work when I had a faulty display (with ghost touches). At that point, there is a wide flex cable coming from display which goes to a flex PCB which has some electronics (one of them should be the touch driver IC) and that flex PCB has that cable what you connect to the phone. The problem definitively seems to be near that wide cable. The location of most possible issues

Unfortunately, images above are not really working... Anyway, it may happen something has broke inside the display. I mean the ribbon cable goes inside the display and connects to a glass layer, where it goes through wires on glass layer. If that glass layer breaks somehow, then it may only conduct again if the two parts of glasses are in a good (close to original) position again. Maybe the most easily injured part is the connection of the flex cable itself to the glass layer, so I think the problem is most likely lying there.

Do you mean it seems to work if you don't tighten the screws for example or until a point it gets contact with the metal part of the phone itself? Anyway, when I have removed my screen from its frame, I have noticed some dust (relatively huge amount of pocket dirt) could go in at one of the shortest sides, which may or may not affect ghosting a bit. However, that line you mentioned which was less sensitive after this ghosting has appeared was also exists for me even when ghosting was not actually present.

For me (along with some others), only the screen was replaced, so the PCB itself was not changed but replacing the screen has resolved the issue. Also, all of us have started to experience the very same symptoms at the very same position and very same kind of ghost touches. My ghost touches became better when I have pressed the bottom left or maybe bottom right corner in portrait orientation. However, what you write sounds interesting... ...somewhere it seems to be caused by a connection or breakage issue, which may be even at the flex cable, the connector, or the display itse

...or the exact model which also needs PCB modification.

Yes, it should be a typo like 60 MHz of refresh rate. 🙂 I think writer was a bit tired.

This is very true. BIOS of IBM XT/AT was a good compatibility layer but it was really slow so some hardware-specific workarounds appeared, then later systems started to use hardware-specific parts, then it was only used to load the OS. The reincarnation of BIOS became UEFI, but it has the same purpose. On ARM devices, there are separate solutions... uboot is maybe one of the most common loader placed in RAW area, but for example, Raspberry Pi uses an own method of loading initial data from a separate FAT partition placed on an SD-card (when other options were not supported). O

...along with Google Camera (photos above were taken using that one, HDR enabled).

...and my cat today in a very dark environment:

...and she is my 15 years old cat four days before the rainy day above, in a sunny day:

The following photo was taken a few minutes later:

The following photo was taken afternoon in a rainy day mid-March, it was raining a bit. I had to reduce the resolution of following images because of 2 MB upload limit.

Right, but if SoC manufacturer does not help, mainline Linux support will come later (if ever), then the hardware becomes obsolete, manufacturing stops, people change hardware and also maintainers may move and the code may be also obsolete in the kernel (sooner or later). However, a chip being supported fully by the mainline kernel would be a very good effect for the long-term future, that is absolutely right. I am writing this on a 4-5 years old PC (Thinkpad P50) which was replaced an around 10 years old another one last year (Dell Latitude E6510), but basically the same system runs