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Right, there are equipments (mostly phones) which cannot start without a proper battery inserted as its "charger circuit" cannot power the whole device at its maximal power. There are also laptops which has weak main power circuit so also a battery is needed. However, I have this issue since more than a year (maybe 1.5 with a few months of "pause" after a factory reset) and I don't think my battery should be in such a bad condition. Anyway, I have two SIMs inserted which may also cause higher power demand... Additionally, my reboot loop also happens above 50% of charge (I think a

It may happen but shouldn't it reduce only the CPU speed? You are right that it may affect overall performance and my feeling can be wrong anyway. Also it may happen if there is a component which runs well from 3.3V power supply but battery is getting closer to 3V is also starting to run at lower performance it there is no step-up converter for it - however, it may happen that UFS is basically running at 1.8V (haven't looked into it) which makes the circuit simpler in this relation. 🙂

I was happy for a moment that one of the functions I would like my Pro1 to have is exists. 🙂 ...but as far as I can see, it does nothing to do about "how fast" the battery charges but it has other features. Am I right? What I would like to see is a software method of disabling fast charge when it is not needed. I use a 5V 1A charging port for this purpose. 🙂 Anyway, to be a bit more on-topic, my Pro1 does a software reboot starting at some point after I connect it to a charger (usually after a few minutes). The kernel does not reboot (uptime is still increasing), but Andro

@tomthegeek, @SCΛRECROW, I suggest you to find a better (but removable) glue which is able to hold the display without allowing it to move. There is a ribbon cable at the bottom of the display (if I remember well) which is better to remain in fixed position. If that ribbon cable breaks, it may lead to ghost touches, display distortion, etc. Sometimes there is another glue comes with a display (maybe B-7000 for example), it seems to hold it good enough. Do not allow the display to move in the frame.

As @Hook wrote, it should be still covered by warranty, however, it may happen they can only replace it with a Pro1-X once it becomes available... However, I think it is a very high chance that the cause of your problem is the UFS Flash itself, and that is an IC which contains (or most likely contained) all your data. Also, data is encrypted by default, so even if the flash would work, others may not have access to it. If it is the very same problem what my friend's Pro1 had, then practically your data already non-existent... However, I would be also interested to buy it as it

That should work well (I also use one of them), but expect some potentially minor problem at some corners. It may happen, but I think the cause is most likely connection problem at the glass-ribbon contacts on the display. So if display can move relative to its frame, it will result in a similar problem sooner or later. So one cause may be the release of its glue holding the display in the frame (which may also be related to impact and glued area) and another cause may be related to the impact itself.

Maybe if you try to lowering the volume in your phone or in your Bluetooth receiver may help. Not related to Bluetooth, but usually I have to use my phone at the lowest possible volume level because a lot of calls are simply too loud. However, in very rare cases, I increase the volume (because of very silent caller), but then loud calls become extremely loud and clipped. At first, I thought it is a "line issue" but then I realized it is simply the cause of too high gain / volume. So I suspect when your Bluetooth receiver faces to input level of too high gain, that would cause a very

Anyway, there are USB power meters, it may be a good idea to connect the Pro1 through it to see if it is charging (or if there is any current flowing through the cable). This would be good to filter out battery / charge-related problems. As for charging, it should have some significant current but when it is charged, the current should drop significantly. If the software cannot be started, the charge indicator will not be driven, but charger circuit itself is working at a basic level. Maybe one discharge-related problem may happen when the loader is set to boot up the device on c

Maybe take a look at this thread, there is a factory restore tool. It may help if the problem is at OS level, so wrong data at the wrong position. I haven't really heard about similar problems, but my friend's Pro1 went into a very similar state. He was speaking with somebody, then put it on a table and the next time he wanted to use it, it was black. It did not have charging indication (however, it was slowly charging). Holding down power button has restarted it (still no sign) and its software was automatically falled back to EDL mode (after about 10-15 minutes), so factor

:S ...but at least it can be still repaired back to mint condition.

@hengyedev, that is a very minor problem for everyday use (own experience)...

This one:

The bottom left curve of the display is not perfect, but that problem is marginal. Edit: look at the blue part

I think that is a minor issue of the display, it is not glue residue. However, it practically doesn't matter. My original display did not have such an issue, but all the displays I bought at Aliexpress had a similar issue in at least one corners, sometimes two... and one of them has a black spot in a very wrong place. My current display has a bit bigger black spot in the upper right corner anyway. So although it is not perfect, practically it does not make problem living together with it - at least I had to look at my phone to find out which corner is the location of this issue f

Thank you in advance, I wrote you a private message. Anyway, the photos you uploaded was greatly reduced by forum engine I think and that is why the actual state is not clearly visible.

I was thinking of a potential replacement main board (I haven't seen if it has any injury and if so, how bad) and also I was thinking of experimenting with the play of hinges... Anyway, if you find anything valuable regarding the play of hinges, please share with us.

Ouch. :S Just a question... would you sell its pieces together? I don't know if it may be usable for anything, but it may worth a try...

Which are those screws? I have a second Pro1 laying around which I have never used as I feel it rattles too much and I become very frustrated when I see it. Also it was arrived together with broken display frame (they told it is a scratch but I think it broke in factory, maybe it was dropped but there were no other injuries), so I sent it back for repair but they have completely disregarded what I told him about the rattling and asked them several ways if they have also solved it which support gave a positive answer. ...but as rattling has not changed, I know they did nothing with

Thank you, that sounds good.

Thank you - how does it display notifications when the device is idle (and AOD is in operation)? Also, does notification LED display anything other than charge indication when the charger is connected? (So missed phone call, SMS, etc - however, if AOD works well, that is another option to see what happened.)

I cut a skin for my Pro1 bought at BestSkinsEver, but I also have a modified rubber case installed on top of that. I don't know what kind of skin is the above one.

Anyway, how are the following functions work under Lineage OS? - Dual SIM support: how does it work, is it possible to select different ringtones for both cards? It is not possible in stock OS, only by 3rd-party method, but I have not found a proper solution. - Notification light: does it manageable better than in stock? So, is it easy to change notification colour of different apps? Is it able to fine-tune its colour? Does charging red light also overcome other notifications like in stock? - Does it have a built-in Always-On Screen Display solution? Thank you in ad

That is the only connector which directly goes to the display, I think it started to loose maybe at the outer edge which is less visible. I am glad it survived this drop with minor damages and the screen works well. Anyway, the easy disassembly process helped a lot, it would not be easily possible on a regular phone...

A hairdryer may not be the best solution because of the excessive air flow and uncontrolled temperature. A proper heat gun would be a much better tool anyway. Also, ensure to use a proper (not too strong but suitable) glue, I think something has arrived together with the screen which should be good.

I don't know what they are doing in the background, but Liangchen Chen has recently shared a tweet here about a case which seems to be a work in progress.