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Protective Case Suggestions and Ideas


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1 hour ago, EskeRahn said:

Yes. And ah I see, these events are not going through the .kcm... Damned... Then we will have to wait for F(x)tec to change F3/F4

Sure looks like that. The events sent by the sensor are actually Fn+F3 and Fn+F4 but trying to replace those did not work either.

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First testprint made last night. I've split the bottom up in 2 parts to figure out how well the fit is. there is some slight (2mm) missalignment of the buttons and usb-c header and the camera placemen

I made a leather pouch for the Pro1. I used cow leather, thickness about 2 mm. All the parts are glued with super glue gel adhesive which remains flexible. I made some holes to see the led and to get

Just finished a quick sketch of the bottom part of the protective cover:   Will run a test print tonight to get first dimensions with hard plastic to see how the shell fits, then adjust

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12 minutes ago, Slion said:

Sure looks like that. The events sent by the sensor are actually Fn+F3 and Fn+F4 but trying to replace those did not work either.

Actually I'm guessing the KCM file only applies to the keyboard device and thus does not to that sensor. Maybe there is a way to install another KCM and have it apply to that sensor somehow. However I can't find docs about it. Even a lot of the stuff I got from FinQwerty does not seem to be documented or just partially.

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As previously mentioned a S20+ full-body back-over-front case was expected to fit the screen, but too long.

This morning this arrived, and well it does fit the screen sideways, and is too long,

BUT it makes the edges of the screen out of reach, and that what not what I was hoping for.

On the other hand the edge sticking out makes it easier to push up the screen.

It is not for me, so I have not bothered to try to cut and melt it shorter....

IMG_20200218_192234~01.jpg

IMG_20200218_191603~01.jpg

IMG_20200218_191722~01.jpg

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like others i bought a Snakehive P20 Pro leather case but it didn't hold my Pro1 safely.  i exchanged the original TPU holder with a TIYA P20 Pro TPU case which fits the Pro1 much better.  one still needs to cut a hole or two into the TPU.  importantly, opening the keyboard is now much easier, a klacks :)  

now i just need to find the right glue to bind the TPU plastic to the Snakehive leather case.

i would refrain from the Spigen P20 Pro hybrid case - it just doesn't fit the Pro1, is too hard, too tight and too deep so that opening of the keyboard becomes a nightmare.

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11 hours ago, pistikem said:

like others i bought a Snakehive P20 Pro leather case but it didn't hold my Pro1 safely

Odd, mine is such a perfect fit on all 4 colour variants I own. Make sure you secure it to the bottom of the TPU housing especially if you are a pusher rather than a lifter.

Pusher: people who think reading the docs is for noobs and keep insisting on opening their Pro1 by pushing the lower edge of the screen. 

Lifter: pretentious know-it-all people gifted with the ability to safely open a Pro1 by lifting the top edge of the screen. Usually equipped with just enough finger nail to operate. 

Edited by Slion
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1 hour ago, pistikem said:

 i exchanged the original TPU holder with a TIYA P20 Pro TPU case which fits the Pro1 much better.  one still needs to cut a hole or two into the TPU.  importantly, opening the keyboard is now much easier, a klacks :)  

Thanks for posting.  I ordered one of the TIYA cases to try out.  I like the bumper corners.

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2 hours ago, Slion said:

Odd mine is such a perfect fit on all 4 colour variants I own. Make sure you secure it to the bottom of the TPU housing especially if you are a pusher rather than a lifter.

Pusher: people who think reading the docs is for noobs and keep insisting on opening their Pro1 by pushing the lower edge of the screen. 

Lifter: pretentious know it all people gifted with the ability to safely open a Pro1 by lifting the top edge of the screen. Usually equipped with just enough finger nail to operate. 

Nudger:  People who want to make use of the nail side of their thumbs just as much as the soft typing side.  Slide each thumb nail between the two halves and nudge the screen forward, easily opening.  Or one thumb opening, and other hand keeping the phone from making a racket, by slowing down the screen until final impact.

Edited by david
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3 hours ago, pistikem said:

i exchanged the original TPU holder with a TIYA P20 Pro TPU case which fits the Pro1 much better

I would have first tried using double sided sticky tape with the original TPU housing before going this way. That should work nicely unless you are taking your phone out of the case too often.

3 hours ago, pistikem said:

now i just need to find the right glue to bind the TPU plastic to the Snakehive leather case.

Do let us know how it goes as I might be considering a similar mod at some point. I was thinking of taking a Snakehive P30 Pro case, as the camera cutout works better with Pro1 and replacing the TPU housing.

How did you separate the TPU housing from the leather? Is it glued on ?

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5 hours ago, david said:

Thanks for posting.  I ordered one of the TIYA cases to try out.  I like the bumper corners.

Yeah I wasn't sure on the one I ordered, but I am deciding they are good to have. Keeps the case on tight due to the extra strength.

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7 hours ago, david said:

Nudger:  People who want to make use of the nail side of their thumbs just as much as the soft typing side.  Slide each thumb nail between the two halves and nudge the screen forward, easily opening.  Or one thumb opening, and other hand keeping the phone from making a racket, by slowing down the screen until final impact.

We should consider this in the how-to-open thread....

Another option is to add some of the adhesive anti-slip tape intended for stairs (black or transparent) e.g. this

And cut a roughly 2-3 x 150mm piece (Use a hobby knife or similar, as the sand kills the blade, do not use a good pair of scissors...), and put along the back edge. (so it does somewhat belong in the casing thread...)

This will give you a VERY easy lift. (The same material is GREAT for compact cameras with slippery surfaces like Sony RX100 III)

IMG_20200219_133500~01.jpg

IMG_20200219_133433~01.jpg

Mine ended on 3mm+ and could/should have been less.

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20 hours ago, Slion said:

Sure looks like that. The events sent by the sensor are actually Fn+F3 and Fn+F4 but trying to replace those did not work either.

@EskeRahn I wonder if we could get a KCM file working by naming it using the VendorID and ProductID that's associated with that sensor, or maybe even simply the name of the device. Do you have a way to work out VID, PID and device name of that sensor?

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1 hour ago, Slion said:

@EskeRahn I wonder if we could get a KCM file working by naming it using the VendorID and ProductID that's associated with that sensor, or maybe even simply the name of the device. Do you have a way to work out VID, PID and device name of that sensor?

I think we have somewhere found the VID and PID of the device, though I do not recall what they are.

But this is a general file for the device and if it went in that way, and the file does not exist, it should use the generic.kl as I understand the Location section at the top of this

So I will guess that it is is not sending a scancode as a keycode, but rather fake a keycode, similar to what I guess a fake keyboard like GBoard does. Otherwise we should have been able to look up reversely and sees what generate the Fn F3 and F4, and that was what we tried...

Of course it COULD be one of the small files, that I generally ignored, if the keyboard and sensor have different PID, though I believe I have had all of them opened, and found unrelated brands, but of course that could be the brand of the hall sensor...

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38 minutes ago, kashif said:

@EskeRahn is extremely obsessed with cases! 🙂

 

And the funny thing is that I never used a flip case before. 😊

And I'm not sure I will keep using the flip-cases when the Pro1 get into general availability. Though I might have gotten used to it by then... 😇

Earlier I just used a simple protective shell giving a better grip, starting with the Ip6- that was slippery as soap but actually to get a KB-case. And later I made a better DIY solution. And a case was also needed to use a KB on the Samsung S8- see this

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1 minute ago, EskeRahn said:

And the funny thing is that I never used a flip case before. 😊

I read an earlier post recently, where you said you weren't a fan of flip cases.  I was wondering what happened.  Lol

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10 minutes ago, david said:

I read an earlier post recently, where you said you weren't a fan of flip cases.  I was wondering what happened.  Lol

Well as the Pro1 is so hard to get replaced, I think a little extra care might be a good idea....

And actually the yellow leather-look one is rather nice looking, so If I could get one that has the right quality in real leather, I might stick with it.... I guess it should be stiff leather that is reduced in thickness near the bend, so it bends smoothly.

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On 2/18/2020 at 5:11 PM, EskeRahn said:

Then we will have to wait for F(x)tec to change F3/F4

Actually there is an easy way to get the phone to lock and wake upon closing and opening your case. Just use Key Mapper. Unfortunately, it can only lock as admin thus preventing you to use the fingerprint reader.
However, the source code is available therefore we should be able to implement normal lock using accessibility service.

I'm not sure if wake up could be implemented in the same way.
I guess it could:
https://stackoverflow.com/questions/2891337/turning-on-screen-programmatically

So there you go, someone needs to jump into Key Mapper code and implement those two actions.
Android is awesome!!!

Edited by Slion
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On 2/19/2020 at 2:22 AM, Slion said:

I would have first tried using double sided sticky tape with the original TPU housing before going this way. That should work nicely unless you are taking your phone out of the case too often.

Do let us know how it goes as I might be considering a similar mod at some point. I was thinking of taking a Snakehive P30 Pro case, as the camera cutout works better with Pro1 and replacing the TPU housing.

How did you separate the TPU housing from the leather? Is it glued on ?

separating the TPU housing from the Snakehive leather is pretty easy and straightforward : detach it slowly, help with your finger tip, so you don't rupture the thin leather sheet.  you may first want to remove that thin black foil attached to the inner side of the TPU case.  that way you see what you do underneath the TPU when detaching it from the leather.

tape : i bought double-sided sticky carpet tape but ultimately refrained from using it as i was afraid i can't separate it later from the leather.

glue : i went with the glue solution which worked flawlessly.  i guess they have a similar approach at Snakehive.  i bought a few ml of 'flexible plastic glue' by LePage/Henkel which sticks to all kind of soft plastics as well as leather and more, just anything it looks.  it smells like Cementit we had used as children years ago.  i pressed the parts together after some 20min of drying, then left the phone overnight inserted in the TPU housing and a layer of cloth wrapped around the Snakehive so to evenly distribute the pressure of a few books i used as weight.  results looks and feels perfect.

TPU holes : i cut this time only four holes into that TIYA P20Pro housing : 0) for the headphone jack, 1) enlarged the adjacent speaker aperture, 2) for the USB-C opening, and finally 3) for the fingerprint reader an oval hole, leaving the upper rim of the TPU case intact and sturdy so it holds the Pro1 more safely.

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On 2/18/2020 at 2:34 PM, Slion said:

Sadly it does not work. Whatever is sending those is bypassing the Key Mapping framework somehow and thus not taking into account overrides from KCM. I'll give it another try later but it those look like we are out of luck on that one.

I didn't quite understand this so I am just asking for a confirmation. Did you try open or close the case during recording the trigger in Keyboard/Button Mapper? Because that app is able to recognize the slider movements (open&close). I can add an action to that trigger if I want. Is the other hall-probe different than the one for detecting slider open&close?

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3 minutes ago, EskeRahn said:

It is a different sensor,in the display part, close above the volume up.

Yes, I do understand that thing. I am just thinking that is that sensor acting differently compared to the slider sensor. If Keyboard/Button Mapper can recognize the slider sensor why it cannot recognize the other one ("flip case sensor")? I can not test it right now by myself but I am planning to test it later.

Edited by FlyingAntero
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4 hours ago, Slion said:

Looks like this app has the same problem as Key Mapper built-in lock action. It prevents you to unlock with fingerprints.

If you want to unlock with fingerprint you need to use Screen Off - Unlock with fingerprint app. Screen Off and Lock does not support that. Also, you can't just select Screen Off - Unlock with fingerprint from Keyboard/Button Mapper. You need to install Nova Launcher and use Nova actions as an activity. Select Screen Off .MainActivity. You can still use stock launcher as a default launcher.

I tested this and I am able to lock with magnet and unlock with fingerprint like normally.

389292208_Screenshot_20200222-0608492.thumb.png.a22ee7c921a46bfeb7caeefe4970d30f.png

978805918_Screenshot_20200222-0609402.thumb.png.52b910bf309f417ca1524f1f3eb902d4.png

Edited by FlyingAntero
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  • phoebus2000 changed the title to Will Pro1 3D printer files for a case work with Pro1X?

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