david

The other thing we need is something to replace the stickers with that cover the screws. Does anyone have any ideas for something that will be very similar to what came with the phone?

@lzb, here is a picture of my Relay 4G in a holster case, next to the holster case for the Pro1. The Pro1 is not in the case at the time of the picture, because it was taking the picture. The smaller holster sits up higher, but there is a considerable difference in length between the two.

It does sound really bad. I noticed that if you trigger the proximity sensor so that it turns the screen off and pauses the playback of the audio message in WhatsApp, and then start playing it again, it is better. Not perfect, but better. I have no idea why. I just tested it again and it works some percentage of the time to do this, but not every time. Once it gets in the right state, then the sound seems reasonably okay. Maybe it depends on the state right at the moment you interrupt it with the proximity sensor.

So do you think the charging state was the fix? Did you have to charge it when off, before it would charge when on?

I read an earlier post recently, where you said you weren't a fan of flip cases. I was wondering what happened. Lol

Why do you use appwhererabbit if oandbackup works for the data?

Funny that you said that. I was just wondering about that too. I don't know if how much the product can be changed after FCC approval. Maybe non-radio changes are fine. The USB port, for instance, looks soldered onto the main board in the photos. We were told a modular one was used that doesn't need to be soldered. So some things could be different in production units.

I guess I was making an assumption that those may not be what we need. Either way, we don't have the source for the batteries yet, which is odd. You would think we'd be able to find it based on the specs too (3150 mAh, etc), but no luck with that either. I hope they aren't ultra rare.

Have you done any testing compared to the pocophone port?

LOL Good point! It was 2 different TVs. But your point stands. The Roku equipped TV has all the apps I would need/want, because Roku is the top streaming device, and is independent (no Google vs Amazon wars), everyone makes apps for it. The only reason for mirroring to it would be to show the screen or play a game or display some obscure streaming app content that doesn't have a Roku app. Or if there was some bug in the app on the Roku. It would also work for displaying videos or photos that exist in the phone, or the phone can access them, but the Roku can't. As for the

That is possible. If so, then we need a bigger motor. Or stack 2 or 3 of these on top of each other and drive them in parallel. I don't know if they are consistent enough in their resonant frequencies for that to work perfectly, but hopefully they would each be close enough to work. I am still thinking those pads between the motor and the case might be dampening the vibration too. I hate to mess with the hardware, but I am never going to know when the phone is receiving a phone call or when a message comes in when the phone is in my belt holster. They do make Bluetooth wris

Well, once the phone is apart, it would be nice to have something ready to try. They don't cost a lot. I am not sure if you can drive them externally though. I believe the LRA style motors need the driver to monitor for the resonate frequency and adjust the power accordingly.

Replying about the vibration motor in the other thread.

Okay, this is a "what if". What if the pad (circled in green) that is probably meant to not allow the case to flex too much *or* is meant to deliver the vibrations from the motor to the case, is too soft? It could be absorbing the vibrations. If so, replacing that soft pad with a firmer material might make the vibrations stronger through the case.

Well, I couldn't find it. I guess it wouldn't have to be identical. It would just need to be something that would fit in the space, even if it was the button shaped type motor. It would just need to match the right voltage, which should be easy to measure with a multi-meter. In fact, hopefully that isn't the problem. Hopefully it is being driven with the right voltage, otherwise that's a much more difficult thing to fix.

Well, I partly answered my own question. I found the location of the motor. It is up by the headphone jack. And it is the "good kind" of motor -- Linear Motor, not ERM. This is going off information online where people indicated that high end phones use the Linear Motor type vibration motors. So it might just be that this particular brand/model is a dud. It looks like the back reads: 0612 and +9431 to me. Off to search for it.

I wonder what it would have shown in the Settings->storage screen at that point. There may be some sort of but where it figures it has already dealt with the SD card and isn't expecting another one, hence no pop-up. Hard to say.

Nudger: People who want to make use of the nail side of their thumbs just as much as the soft typing side. Slide each thumb nail between the two halves and nudge the screen forward, easily opening. Or one thumb opening, and other hand keeping the phone from making a racket, by slowing down the screen until final impact.

Thanks for posting. I ordered one of the TIYA cases to try out. I like the bumper corners.

It was probably formatted as exFAT before. That is the standard format for cards larger than 32 GB. But for a device to read that, they have to pay money to Microsoft. The surface pro, being a Microsoft device, can obviously read it. The Note 8, being from a company with billions of dollars, has paid for the licensing. Fxtec hasn't paid for the licensing. However, Microsoft has now made the code available for free, so it should be coming in some future version of the firmware. When you say that it didn't show the first two times, were you looking in Settings->Storage, or thought

As an aside, I passed his along to T-Mobile today:

Let's just say that I'll take my chances. :-) We just need to find out what the model number is for the battery, so we can buy them. Screens and batteries and USB ports and screen cables. (keyboard is an unknown) Those are the weak links over time.

Man, the post moves really killed some of the links in this topic. :-) I'd like to know more about the vibration motor in the Pro1. It is too weak. I'm hoping it is of a standard design and can be replaced with something that is the same form factor, but just works better (stronger). Anyone find this in the teardown documentation somewhere and know anything about the replaceability of it? I suppose it could even be a matter of the current motor not being in contact with the frame enough to transmit the vibrations properly. In which case, maybe the motor wouldn't need replacing,

The built in casting on the Pro1 seems to speak google cast to a Chromecast device and you can cast from within google cast enabled apps too, without using Google Home. Of course, for a true Chromecast dongle, you need the Google Home app to set it up. For a Chromecast enabled (built-in) TV, you don't, since you have a remote control to enter the details into the TV network configuration screen.

I did some testing today. Here are the details and results: NOTE: You will have fewer problems if you have your streaming/display device and your phone on the same wireless access point. NOTE: A reminder that your best setting on your TV, where you can set aspect ratio, is probably "screen fit", if you have that option, rather than 16:9. 16:9 will often cut off a little bit on the right and left side in order to fill the screen vertically. If your TV's native resolution is a 16:9 aspect ratio, this will mean that you'll get black bars on the top and bottom, but you'll be seeing