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EskeRahn

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Everything posted by EskeRahn

  1. Nice. I too would like to find a good one in leather. On the glue half part, I think it should be mentioned that For those using the back camera and/or LED a lot, it is recommendable to cut a hole, and perhaps glue the whole part (like you did). For those using it less, keeping it un-cut gives a better camera protection, at the price of needing to fold it all the way open to use the camera/LED. I like you idea of using a better inner bumper case, though to me that would be overkill The best one I've found (so far) isn't real leather either. I have bought
  2. Yes that was tricky too but once you get it right it works flawlesly. I tried to make a little help-file, to show at 100%... ADD Sigh, the forum shrinks the image ... Here the full file: https://eskerahn.dk/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/Pro1_Hall_Sensor_Top.png It is roughly 300 pixel from the top and 200 from the Right (refferenced in portrait) Note that the orientation of the magnet matters, so you might need to turn it around back to front
  3. That you only get half, has the benefit that you can investigate the detail of the fit to the curvature towards the side edges, and how the 'lip' is grabbing the edge. For the same reason you could consider cutting the part you already made in two, to see how good it fits the end-profile.
  4. Interesting! Just a hint on the hole for fingerprint. You should give it slanted edges, otherwise it will be hard to get to.
  5. Very interesting, thanks! I tag @Waxberry to make sure he sees this, so It can be forwarded to the right people. 🙂 Especially interesting that they even got a workaround..
  6. BTW $550 is really a bargain price, I bet it will not be up for long. Had someone done the same in Europe with a qwertZ model, I would be VERY tempted to buy it as a spare.
  7. Too bad you can not get it working. Some US carriers require some trickery. Have you seen this thread?
  8. Oh indeed, specially newer Bluetooth versions are more lenient, but for those of us not using it, it is still waste of battery, and hence stamina. I'm not saying that all radios should be off, just those that aren't in use and isn't needed.
  9. Maybe this code sample from here can be modified to a more general list, of course of different type and the firstOrNull should obviously be replaced with some loop private lateinit var sensorManager: SensorManager private var mSensor: Sensor? = null ... sensorManager = getSystemService(Context.SENSOR_SERVICE) as SensorManager if (sensorManager.getDefaultSensor(Sensor.TYPE_GRAVITY) != null) { val gravSensors: List<Sensor> = sensorManager.getSensorList(Sensor.TYPE_GRAVITY) // Use the version 3 gravity sensor. mSensor = gravSensors.firstOrNull { it.vendor.contains("Googl
  10. I know nothing on the interior of Android, but could the API return an ARRAY with values for the two sensors?
  11. The list in Quicom's "Device Info" seems longer (50 sensors), But it does not seem to appear there either. It could be the one five from the bottom with the long name "BU52061NVX ROHM_HALL_EFFECT", but it does not show the readout from the sensor. So hard to say if that is the one See this
  12. I know what the proximity sensor is ... BUT they just MIGHT be exposing these two Hall sensors as "TYPE_PROXIMITY" (Note: TYPE), The reason to believe so is the binary type output we see in the FactoryKit test-program. And if you are looking for it as a TYPE_MAGNETIC_FIELD sensor, no wonder you can not find it.
  13. Ah, that made more sense.... Most likely it is handled as a proximity sensor, And if we are unlucky it might not be marked for wake up. https://developer.android.com/reference/android/hardware/Sensor#TYPE_PROXIMITY https://developer.android.com/reference/android/hardware/Sensor#isWakeUpSensor() But as the other Hall sensor IS clearly able to wake up the device, it seems unlikely that they are not both.
  14. It is easy to find, it is near the end of the volume rocker. I have posted stuff showing the whereabouts above.
  15. The same author also have a "Transparent CPU Monitor", that can show CPU and GPU as a transparent layer. That might be helpful in debugging?
  16. I just ran it again WITH the tick box to include the temperature, and note on the first how the temperature of ONE of the cores is sky-rocketting in the first minute, and stays up during the entire test, while the other cores are at a more moderate temperature. They all start out at around 20 (it was placed at a table at a room temperature of 21) Also note that I have been EVIL, I did NOT take it out of the flip-case, so it did NOT have the cooling from the exterior it is designed to have.
  17. I just tried the first on a S8- (exynos, so not the same) and the Pro1. And even throttled it is higher than my S8- before throttling. (The Pro1 was disturbed by a call I did not answer during the test, the red line)
  18. Well though you might not care on the battery stamina, I assume you are interested in the battery life - even if the device are not glued together. Heating the device too much kills the battery. (That is the exact reason why we -as you wisely do- should avoid fast charging in normal daily usage, and only use it when we are in a hurry)
  19. Well if you quick-charge it you certainly get it extensively heated, so if you get a low FPS rate then, but a high rate when it is cold, that should give a pattern. You could even try to operate it on something cold, and see if that helps it. If it does, your intuition on throttling is right. Be careful not to take something TOO cold, we do not want risking condensation of water vapour from the air inside the device.
  20. Hmm, that is odd. No matter how good or bad, we would expect it to be consistent. Could something be running in the background taking the resources? Try something like "Android Assistant", and click the "Processes" tab, and perhaps kill (=stop) irrelevant stuff, and see if you can get more consistent results. Perhaps try something that works off line, and put it in Aeroplane mode, to isolate.
  21. Well good that you reported it, and the more details the better. I'm not in anyway saying that they by optimisation wenot could extra out of the hardware. But I think they are more than busy with fixing bugs & malfunctions, so the easier we can make it for them to narrow down where there is an optimisation needed, the more likely it is to be implemented. It could be as simple as some code left in a debug mode somewhere, that uses/wastes time on logging, or it could be a complex thing needed. And worst case it is a limitation with the screen hardware/interface. So the more it
  22. Note this is open camera, and I see similar on both Stock and LOS. I'm pretty sure there is BUG in the camera API, so when OC tries to stitch things together we get weird Halo's. HDR with OC works just fine on other phones, so I'm pretty sure it is a parameter issue on one (or both) the images that are to be stitched. My GUESS is that something is handled as linear that ought to be handled logaritmic or vice versa.... e.g what should be 10% longer exposure is handled as 2^10%=7% The snapdragon-camera-app does NOT have this on HDR. So it either access the camera directly, and not through t
  23. Those mushrooms clearly did not do you any good... 🤢 But on a more serious note, I tried to take an extreme HDR-image with both LOS and stock, and in stock I got the below (well here a cropped and reduced version of it). Note the lime-green halo on the flames.
  24. ...Stop eating whatever you are eating immediately... 🤣
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