david

That's a great situation, where you can try it and still resort to them if needed. Any and all pictures you can provide would be great. In particular, both sides of the battery (showing any numbers/letters/codes), a close up of the USB port, and close ups of both sides of the flat screen cable and connectors that both ends fit into on the screen side and non-screen half of the phone would be great! These are all parts that may wear our more quickly than other parts in time, hence the focus on those. Good luck with your patient revival process!

Not even politicians? 😇

Titanium does not work with the packaging method they use for the Disney Plus app. Swift Backup and some other apps do work with the new format. You can also install it outside the play store by downloading the file and using a special installer. It is not an apk file, so you can't just open it with android or a file browser and install it the way we always have. I downloaded it from the Apk pure site and then used their apk pure app to install it. I then removed the apk pure app, as it is full of ads and gave me a lot of hesitation having it on the phones I was installing it on.

It is because of the OTA that causes play store issues. If you are rooted with Magisk, go into the Downloads section in Magisk Manager and install SafetyPatch. If you aren't rooted, then you need to jump through some hoops to install it outside the play store, because it uses split APKs/App Bundles. I am running it fine on the Pro1 through the Play Store with the first method and the 20200304 OTA. I have also installed it on 2 unrooted Pixel 4 XLs that have unlocked bootloader, which makes them not pass safetynet, hence can't see Disney Plus or Netflix in the Play Store.

At least you tried. Best guess is that Titanium will work for the app data, but might not work for reinstalling some of the app apks. You will most likely be able to install the apps that fail from the play store and restore the Titanium data backup over the top of them, though. Swift Backup is another possibility. It can handle the new types of APKs better. It has confusing options and UI though. AppWererabbit is another option for the app data. For any apps that are designed to work with it, the built in Google cloud backup works well and is your best option to get *most* (

I'm just saying that I have the keyboard fix (in stock) and I use SwiftKey, and I can use multiple keys at the same time (with the mentioned exceptions). If it isn't happening for you in other apps, maybe it is something in the game itself that is conflicting. I'll try supertux and report back how it acts in stock (with SwiftKey).

You have to run "su" first to elevate your privileges so that you can search through directories that you otherwise wouldn't. When you uninstall Magisk, you no longer have the ability to run "su". You can only run that and the find command after you have re-installed Magisk and have root.

Do you remember modifying that file? Maybe you can compare the date it was changed with modified files in the /data partition to see which apps were modified around the same time to try to figure out which app did it (if you didn't manually do it). I believe that is a systemless change, meaning that Magisk allows the SafetyPatcher to modify a virtual version of that file. Once you uninstall Magisk, that change, in theory, shouldn't be there and won't cause problems. Ad-Aware seems to be a common app that people install that modifies the hosts file. If you have that insta

I tried a simple test of holding down a single key and was able to type other keys. I tried with 2 keys held down and was able to type some keys, but not all. I thought I remembered @netman explaining that there were some limitations like that in the fix, where it wouldn't allow for certain multi-key combos, but would allow for enough that game input could be mapped around it. That is just from memory, though, so could be wrong. Does it behave the way I described in LOS?

Does this mean the fix where multiple keypresses can be registered at the same time doesn't work when SwiftKey is enabled for some reason in LOS?

Did you mean SwiftKey? https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.touchtype.swiftkey&hl=en_US That's what I use too (on the stock firmware).

Trying to understand the problem in more detail. You can use the phone if the keyboard is open? In other words, with the keyboard open, the screen turns on and the screen responds to touch input? With the keyboard closed, the screen only turns on when you get a notification, and then the screen responds to touch input? I've had some similar behavior, but not identical, on phones in the past, when the cable connecting the bottom part of the phone to the screen was damaged. Maybe in your Pro1, this has become disconnected partly at one end or the other, or there is something damaged

I have 2 Gmail accounts currently configured on my Pro1 and don't see the issue.

Thanks for any details you can give us on the process of what it took to replace it and how it works afterward.

I'd recommend trying this from the shell to see what has changed in the last N days. You'll have to install Magisk again. Change "-1" to "-2" "-3" etc to go back more than 1 day.

What happened to the screen? If you are doing the replacement soon, if you end up taking the bottom half apart, pictures of the parts mentioned several posts ago would be great. Good luck with the repair. If you are able to document the process, that would be very helpful too.

That doesn't work for incremental updates. They only contain the changes, not the full data for each partition. Multiple people have gone back to the factory firmware from 2019 and also rooted, so that should be fine as long as you follow these instructions. You might be able to save your data by skipping the "fastboot erase userdata" step. On the other hand, if there is some incompatibility with older apps (system or user) and the format of the data in the userdata, then that could cause odd behaviors. Wiping the userdata would avoid that theoretical risk. When you wipe user

Poor guessing. 🙂 I thought I read that you were trying to find which one worked with older devices vs newer, so I thought there were multiple and that those were those multiple. I didn't see one with Pro1 in the name on the site, but I didn't look in all folders, so I could have missed it if it is out there.

@tdm, I got your tool to work. I was able to simulate flashing the phone with the No Write option. I think I have an idea what makes it work and not work, but I will play with it a bit more to be sure and then report back. In the meantime, which firehose is being used in the current version of the tool? Tulip, Crackling, or Bacon?

That will teach me. I should have added a "knock on wood" to that. I just had my first known random reboot. I had charged the phone to 99% and then unplugged it and it was sitting for 10 to 12 minutes. I saw the screen turn on and glanced over, noticing it was setting up the SD card and other things that it only does after a reboot. Again, I'm on stock, but weighing in, since some code is shared between the LOS and Android builds.

My phone is working fine (I'm able to boot into android and use the phone) and I don't have a special cable for EDL mode. I get into EDL mode by powering off the device, then holding down both volume up and volume down. Then pressing and holding the power button. The pro1 screen will show for a few seconds and then go off. I then release all 3 keys. That process is what @tdm documented on the tool web page for phones where the partitions involved in the early boot sequence haven't been corrupted. I have set mine to allow charging when powered off too. I guess it is easy to undo

This was immediate. I didn't know they could capture USB traffic. I will try to install one of those and see if I can capture the communication. Glad to hear that, since less chance it is something acting differently on my phone. Other brand phones do apparently blink the LED when in EDL mode. Are you saying for the serial over USB api, the virtual Com port speed doesn't affect the real speed?

Thanks for the answers. I wasn't questioning your decisions. I was just trying to understand how things were communicating one way or another. I didn't think it was when it was done flashing. It showed it immediately after I clicked the flash button. How long should it take to copy the file to the phone when the no write option is enabled? Is there some way to enable logging so I can give you a log file? Also, when I am in EDL mode, my LED light does not flash. I think I have read that others have had their light flash, but I don't know if that was for the Pro1 or othe

Is your own phone having issues running android, or are you just trying to see if you can get it working with @tdm's EDL tool so that you know what might work with your friend's phone? What is the icon that appears and how is that related to EDL mode?

Add on stupid question... These 3rd party tools mention possibly setting the virtual com port speed to a slower setting if you encounter problems. The *fastest* you can set it to is 128,000 bps (bits per second!). That seems like it would take a LONG time to transfer gigabytes of data. Is there something I'm missing there and it is only bound to that speed for certain handshaking, but not actual data transfers? And with WinUSB drivers, do you have these same speed limitations?