EskeRahn

At that raises the question if it is more interesting to know that there are issue, or to hear about possible workarounds? And that is NOT saying that a workaround is a solution. But I will claim that what ever workaround that make things useful for a user, is better than just storing it in a drawer. Waiting for a fix. Our complaining about things not working in a user-to-user forum, are hardly speeding any solution at all. At best it can tell others with similar issues, that it is not a fault specific to their device alone.

Unfortunately I have to agree, and as some suggested it might be needed for FxTec to send someone abroad to (try to?) reproduce it, if either they do not get useful logs, or these do not give any clues they can use. In some odd way it would have been nice If I had had the problems here, and could try all kind of weird stuff.

I think this is spot on. But just like we don really know how large a portion that are affected (could be anywhere from almost everyone to almost no-one), similar we do not know who the 'average buyer is', we are just guessing. I have the same guess as you here though. But Hook might be a typical user... I really do not know. On the issues of this thread we know that it is seen it multiple environments, but as said earlier as some do not see them, the big question is if they are just lucky, or the one reporting just unlucky. Since FxTec said previously that they were unable to reproduce

Glad you got it working. Could also be a port issue, from the flashing we know that it is often easier to get it working with usb 2.0 than 3.0, or with a usb hub. Personally I was completely unable to flash with my Lenovo Yoga (model "20XY") directly, from any port, but attaching it to a Usb 3.0 port on my Lenovo Thunderbird 4.0 hub, works flawlessly. I have no idea what the real difference is here, But just to say that connecting can be a puzzle.

Very interesting!! Especially as FxTec has said explicitly that we can not use a battery for one, on the other. @Casey Can you clarify on what the difference is?, is it 'just' a different cable/plug? If so a Pro1X battery could be a great DIY start for repairing a Pro1, when FxTec no longer have the Pro1 batteries for sale.

There is a HUGE difference between what I will install on a test phone, and what I will install on my production pc. Had it been an apk to do the unpacking on the device I was about flash anyway, it would have been a viable option.

No, something is wrong. We have had report on the old Pro1, where the upper part was not 'tight'. Do you see any gab that is not uniform all the way round? If so, try and see if you can press it together with your fingers. Maybe one of the screws has loosened. If you can press it together but it pops back out, try to lift one of the (cosmetic) labels covering a screw in that place, and see if a screw is loose. Obviously you can also send it to them for a repair - but who wants to wait for that if not strictly needed...

My bad wording.... sorry, What I meant was if there are any circuitry between the plug and the cable going into the cells. Can you see or fell any 'chip', or is it just the wires that goes directly from the plug? IF there are some sort of circuitry, we will need to mimic that if we try with a different battery. If we are lucky all the circuitry is on the board.

(lineage-20.0-20230410-nightly-pro1-signed.zip on April 5 security patch installed smoothly using adb sideload and MindTheGapps-13.0.0-arm64-20221025_100653) @TeZtdevice I guess it is the OTA update they broke. Try with adb sideload. PS note that I always flash the boot-image as well, maybe they changed something there that broke OTA??

Well assuming that the ones that's behind the project are good people you are both absolutely right. But frankly how could we assume this? Posting something useful is the best vector to distribute any malware... For large enterprises (like the one in Redmond you mentions), they put their brand value at risk if they publish stuff with hidden malware. (And yes I know many would say that the whole Windows system fills the definition of malware, but that is another discussion...) So long story short: I'm all for open source, but I would advice anyone to fetch and compile the source rathe

(I moved some comments out in it's own thread here)

@Whitey, having it disassembled, can you see if there are any circuitry between the plug and the cable? (this is interesting to know for the DIY suggestions over here) (I think I better move these comments to a battery thread, as it really in no way is a sailfish specific thing) done... (This thread is split out from here)

I think you are on the right path, and will need to go through EDL-mode. If the phone were turned off, the battery of a phone usually last for at the least a year if fully charged, without depleting it self. But if it was in a state where it turned it self off, and then was left for months, it might well be problematic. I do not know if there are any tricks to charge the battery in that state without opening the phone and charging the battery directly, by a circuitry bypassing the charging-logic (do not give the battery 5V directly). Many phones by default comes with a silly mode

Thanks, I corrected the link.

Did I in any way say that people should not do what you suggested? I even did follow one of your links for a recipe and fetched the source, There are zero control that any code and link in the text on github are related, so yeah I see that as random links, obvious less random that what a google search can throw at you, but still unsafe. That Is why I needed to compile any source, that as open source is much less likely to be dirty than linked binaries..

Would be great if we could thus rule out or confirm, if it is the location or the specimen that is the culprit.

I do not know if a similar thing exists publicly available in the US, But here in Denmark there is a public site "mastedatabasen.dk" where one can zoom in and see quite a bit of info on each cell-tower location. ADD: https://www.cellmapper.net/ give some information along the highways , and several roads. That might help.

You are aware that the links you posted were for the source, right?. And yes I did not read all the blah blah so I did not look for links for the binaries, And anyway I never install binaries from random links, so would not have used them had I found them..

yes...

Except having to install something else that can execute .go instead of .py ...... 🤣

Yeah, but we do NOT know if there are any circuitry between the cable and the battery cells. We would need some close ups, or even disassembled batteries... But sure we could be lucky that there are only connecting wires between the plug and the cells.

OK, I tried TLDR: Waste of time, AICP-S is BROKEN for Pro1!!! I gave AICP a final chance by infesting a windows-pc with Phewton (it was already infested with GIT) and extracted the boot.img from the zip. Following this guide https://wiki.lineageos.org/extracting_blobs_from_zips#extracting-proprietary-blobs-from-payload-based-otas (adjusted as needed...) Infested a PC with Python, https://www.python.org/ Downloads Download for Windows, Python 3.11.2 Found pip.exe and installed packages needed C:\Users\Administrator\AppData\Local\Programs\Python\Python311\Scripts

The campaign was opened in October (My contribution is From October 27) And I bet that a large portion came within a few days (to benefit from the early offers), so depending on when in November you joined, 1528 do not have to be a high number. (And not all numbers are equal to a perk for a phone. Spare parts, and failed or cancelled orders 'burns' a number - on previous campaign I have had problems with IGG accepting the payment, and that is not uncommon that an order fails this way, and we have to try again)

Though we still know too little on the cause, we should not rule out the possibility that there COULD be some hardware issue that does not affect ALL Pro1X. I mean that it is totally feasible that some batches are better/worse than the rest. That would explain why some have problems and others not. though it is obviously not the only possible explanation, until we have a situation with a spot where one Pro1X consistently fails and another is working flawless (or at the least much better), with the same sim/provider.

Remember that he wrote that it can be accessed from a computer, so a good guess is that no 'vital' parts are damaged, though the display (or cables for it) is. But obviously no guarantee, that no other parts have suffered.